I will report on my findings. Thank you so much for your advice. Question; The tests you want me to perform, are on the Alternator, or Voltage regulator?.

Dave O

Constant power. also should be the door lights, headlights and the horn. Although the headlights will only work off the switch. The power is always there. Again if you need any photos, I have taken some.Try to study the schematic on this site for your car. I will help you understand where things go and why. It was my Bible as I rewired my car. Although sometimes I didn't understand the splices and where they were. I just did it. All seems to be working on my 23rd Series Car.

Dave O

Start on Page 4 of the Electrical manual:packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/servicemanual5154/Electrical_VIII.pdf

Do the Circuit Breaker check. Probably it is not pulling in. Does the circuit breaker appear to be working?

Also: measure the voltage between A and ground. It should slowly rise as you slowly rev the engine then stop at about 7. If it does not rise, it could be a faulty generator or voltage regulator relay. If it goes past 7, faulty voltage regulator relay. If it stops at 7 but the circuit breaker does not pull in, faulty circuit breaker.

Let us know what you find.

OK; boys and girls. Here's My issue. 1949 23rd series Packard. Auto -lite system. I need your thoughts. I rewired the car last winter. I fired it up in July. No smoke, no sparks. Everything seems to be working perfectly. I turned on the the headlights, and the ammeter, started to swing wildly from charge to discharge. I turned off the lights, and later another day I discovered that while re-installing the dash two wires came off. I put them back where I thought they should be. But I was wrong. The headlights were being back fed through the instrument lights. I corrected the issue. The car is not charging well. Its receiving some voltage I believe.....only because if it were only running off the battery it would not run for the miles I put on it. The Ammeter pretty much stays in the upright position all the time. What do you all think I fried out?. I must note that I have no idea if the car was charging properly when I received it. But the more I drive it the slower the starter turns over.....so its not being charged properly. And if I put a charger on it. It always takes some charge. But not more than 15 mins. I have flashed off the generator several times but I have seen no results. The voltage regulator I believe is original. I did clean the contacts before re-installing. Just need your thoughts on what to do next.

Dave O

I should hopefully be there!

Super thank you

greetings Mike

Be sure the ignition is in good order, and be sure the radiator core isn't loaded with dust, bugs, lint, grass seeds, etc. That stuff can embed deep among the tubes and block a lot of airflow. Dirt dauber nests in the exhaust system can cause issues. A stuck manifold heat valve (Very common issue)can contribute to overheating and flooding. Some cars have tailpipes that are prone to hitting curbs or other obstructions and can be bent in such a way that exhaust flow is restricted. Mufflers can be plugged with mouse nests, acorns, and other odd stuff.

I'd want to drain the fuel tank and put 5 gallons of fresh gas in it, then let it sit for a day or two, then drain that and add another 5 gallons of fresh gas before starting the car. A pint of Sea Foam added to the fuel would be a good idea before starting it. I'd also want to change the oil once it is started and warmed up good, and add a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil in place of a quart of motor oil when refilling it. 10W30 detergent oil is a good choice. Change the oil filter if one is present. Brakes may give trouble if the parts are aged. Use caution, and be sure emergency brake is working.

Just down the road from me in Brookfield:)
June 9-15
Can't wait!

Also if the gas is the old and stale 5 year old gas get rid of that and get fresh before starting the engine. Several have found out the hard way after using old gas to start and run the engine for a few minutes that when trying to start it again a few days later the valves had stuck.

Something in the old gas turns to an almost glue like substance when heated and deposits on the valve stems making them stick in the valve guides. A couple of engines were so bad it took major disassembly and brute force to finally free the valves.