The 49 club sedan appears to be a Standard, not Deluxe.

The 41 120 is a touring sedan, not a formal sedan, but that's pretty obvious

As said, the keepers are very small metal half-hollow cones. One of those magnets on the end of a telescoping rod is very useful. To put them back on, put a dab of grease on them, they will then stick to the valve stem.

Here is a link with some discussion

pulling the valves discussion

I got the starter to turn using the ignition key today and nothing melted.

That might be a small thing for some of you but it is huge for me.

Here are a few recent FB posts:

1941 180 Sedan with dual sidemounts. Solid unrestored in IL. Price is probably too high, but looks pretty decent:

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/616836207127214/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post

1937 115C Coupe. Partially finished street rod, has the typical Chevy 350 crate engine. Ad says it is a 1935, but I'm pretty sure it is a '37 115C

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/780805133253932/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post

Set of four Packard fenders. Think they are for a 1937 115C. Wasn't someone here looking for these? Need metal work but reusable.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1706639286419399/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post

Very nice 1931 833 Five Passenger Coupe in OH. Older restoration that looks good:

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/191868576996208/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post

1928 526 Cabriolet in Fort Worth, TX. Nice older resto, I would love to own this car. Looks very sharp with the red wire wheels:

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/942764573823593/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post

1955 Clipper Constellation HT in WA. Looks like a solid original survivor car:

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2125132257680710/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post

Here are a few new listing I found today:

1937 115C Convertible Coupe. Looks pretty nice, but someone stuck on some extra chrome emblems. Located in NH:

https://nh.craigslist.org/ctd/d/milton-mills-1937-packard-roadster/7612270253.html

1952 300. A bit shabby, but not too bad and cheap at $3,195. Interior is completely wrong, however. Upstate NY

https://fingerlakes.craigslist.org/cto/d/branchport-1952-packard-200/7611914308.html

Very nice 1949 (22nd Series) Club Sedan. Has 288 CI, can't tell if it is a Standard or a Deluxe Eight. Located in PA:

https://philadelphia.craigslist.org/cto/d/fort-washington-rare-1949-packard/7607006190.html

1942 Clipper 160 Super Eight. Body No. 1572. Solid unrestored example, but asking price is ridiculous at $45K. Greenville, SC:

https://greenville.craigslist.org/cto/d/greenville-antique-auto/7612476746.html

Very nice 1956 400 in Atlanta, GA area. Think this one may have been posted here before, but it looks like a really good car:

https://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/cto/d/east-ellijay-1956-packard-400/7608178786.html

1941 120 Sedan. Ad states car was partially restored about 30 years ago, and then parked. Mechanicals, paint and chrome were done. Some work still needed. Looks really good in the photos. Kansas City, MO:

https://kansascity.craigslist.org/cto/d/harrisonville-1941-packard-120/7606403955.html

1948 Standard 8 Club Sedan. Well patinaed original car. Someone stuck on Custom 8 side trim and fashioned a third rear brake light out of a 23rd series tail light assembly. Needs a lot of work but has an accessory sun visor and Packard script spotlight. Love the look of a sun visor on 1940's cars.

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/cto/d/valley-ford-1948-packard-eight-2dr/7613000050.html

1948 Station Sedan in Southern CA. Rough project car. You will need advanced woodworking skills to tackle this one. Ad says there are two cars, but only see one in the ad. Has several other cars for sale and also a project vintage airplane:

https://inlandempire.craigslist.org/cto/d/adelanto-jensen-healey-jaguar-packard/7611017419.html

1938 Six Sedan. Nicely restored car in Southern CA:

https://visalia.craigslist.org/cto/d/visalia-1938-packard-touring-sedan/7604087961.html

The keepers are a pair of tapered half round pieces with a protruding section on the inside that fits in a groove on the valve stem. The pair completely surrounds the stem. The hole in the spring seat at the bottom of the springs fits around the narrow end of the keepers so seat pushing against the taper forces the keepers tightly into the stem groove and taper also keeps the seat and spring from sliding off the stem.

Once the spring compressor raises the seat above the keepers they will be free to come off. A small magnet will help grab them. You will inevitably drop some of them so it is advisable to have a rag covering the oil drain holes at the bottom of the valve chamber to prevent the small keepers from falling into the oil pan.

I had no idea. I'll make sure I better understand this and practice good maintenance.

It all makes sense now. So the overdrive kick down switch was being engaged when I pushed the pedal and it wasn't coming back down when I came off the pedal for the start.

So when I press the the pedal it is engaging the carburetor and that connects to 2 wires at thr bottom of the carb and that sends electricity to the starter solenoid.

I think I'm going to try the screw type instead of the squeeze type. Can someone provide a picture or description of the keepers? Do I need a tool to remove or re-install the keepers?

The manual says fluid level should be at the max fill line when all the windows are down and if the seat is hydraulic, seat to the rear. On the top, I think Don is correct with them being down.

I didn't see a mention of top position and the demand will be almost but not quite identical when in either position. If you account for the volume displaced by the rods themselves then slightly less should be needed at the top of the cylinder when the rods are pushed down.

If the logic is correct, since the rods will displace the small amount of fluid, the cylinder rods should be down when level is checked to get the maximum amount of fluid possible in the reservoir.