With all the fasteners removed but the spark plugs still in, you might just crank the starter motor a few times. On rare occasions the compression pressure is enough to free it up. But it's a LONG SHOT. More likely you'll have to start working your way around the perimeter of the head inserting something like a THIN putty or spackle knife preferably between the outer layers of the headgasket, tapping it in gently to produce a little upward force, and then moving stepwise around the perimeter of the head. Be careful, and patient!!, you don't want to cause any damage to either the head or the block surfaces. Once the head breaks free, you can use several wood wedges to gradually raise it up high enough to get a firm grip on it and remove it. You may want to have a helper handy to assist with the lifting.

No flanges that we could see. The owners manual indicates a head lifter tool, maybe?

Is there a flange you can pry on a bit?

Worst case you can tap between the head and block with a chisel but I would NOT do this until you wait for more opinions to spill in...

Thank you for the images and torque suggestions. They are very helpful.

One last ask...how in the heck to I get the head off of the engine. I have the radiator neck off, all of the top nuts off and the disti removed.I have banged on it with a dead blow hammer but I do not get even a hint of movement...

Thanks,
Gar

Vanya, please note that these cars (the power brake system used) is sensitive to old brake fluid. I highly recommend you change it every 2-3 years, which means to change it now unless you are certain it was recently done.

Not to scare you but brake failure is possible (with no warning) if you let the fluid get 10-15 years old and it starts to crystallize. For this reason, you will want to inspect the reservoir for crystals also.

By the way, this problem is the same for ALL mid-50's cars that use the Treadle-Vac system. Just something to be aware of.

Mike, for the rear channels of the door window....I used part number 10-389X from Rubber the Right Way. It's not labeled for Packards but I worked with them trying out different samples until we found the right one. It's a perfect fit in the rear channel, no glue.

Here's the post where I installed new run channels in my car.

Hi guys.
The horizontal fuzzies that Go along the beltline are the ones I replaced. They are from steele. I had two leftover from doing the clipper.
The Vertical Channels are different than what I have in the clipper, so that might get done at a later date.
I think I will keep the big washers, and may add a thin plastic washer so nothing rattles. Lets see if anybody else with convertible/hardtop knowledge chimes in. Thanks!

Thank you Kevin! Topaz and agate is the color scheme. I'm enjoying it very much.

Beautiful car you have. I love that color combo. For the power steering, remove the cap from the reservoir and check inside. There should be a line scribed on the inside that indicates the fill level. Should be Dexron ATF for the power steering system.

-Kevin

Well that's great news!!!

Sounds like you have your transmission tuned for sport mode! Correcting the control rod for the throttle valve certainly would have made a difference!

I need to get a few hours to work on mine and get it set up and operating properly.

Thanks for the update!