I'm thinking I may have the same issue here. The only unusual noise is what I describe as a warble type of sound as the engine runs. Almost sounds like suction. Thought maybe it was the crank stirring oil in the crankcase but only a guess. Wish I could post a video with sound.

The engine cylinders only needed a little Mavel Mystery Oil. Only a very light surface rust. They freed up easily however the output shaft on the transmission was seized to the crank. I had to remove the transmission and replace the pilot bearing. Had many things going on so figured I would put it back together to see if I had compression or rod knock before going any further. I knew I was rolling the dice but this car was making my head spin. It started right up and continues to do so. Was hoping to drive a little and get a feel for the car but the oil pressure isn't good while under load.

I should try some of these on some spare Henney wheelcovers which are totally dull but maybe Korean War Chrome so no hope they will shine like the cap. I have a cap just like that somewhere from one of my prewar Packards - probably my original 1939 Six. (By the title, I thought you were making a comment about your mother!)

I am a fan of Simichrome, been a fan for years

Looks nice!

I use a similar product, Nevr-Dull by Eagle One. It works, but I haven't compared other products to see if there is a better option. The one can is essentially a lifetime supply for me.

I've gotten in the habit of throwing on a layer of wax afterwards....it helps to give the metal a bit of extra shine.

-Kevin

This came up a couple years ago, someone was looking for a radiator and mine was recored and they didn't like that. Moot - the original cores are no longer available anyway. Not many 73 year old radiators are going to be in top shape, if you find one or won't if they are, after much use.
I suspect the 288 which idles at 400 rpm does not produce much heat, nor is it going to be driven at WOT all day. They have air flow sheet metal dams to direct the flow to the radiator which are also missing in this photo. Autos are air side limited in heat transfer, so having proper air flow is more important.

FYI: There's a tab on the site main menu on left for the "factory parts list".

I don't see much need for a trans cooler except for authenicity unless you're going to be towing. Unless there's a special problem with the ultramatic, the early period auto transmissions were all "cooled" but later that was done away with, so it was probably a factory "myth-o-day", much like "carb icing", that accompanied the early automatics.

I had bought a little tub of Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish to clean up something else, but I decided to see what it would do on this gas cap. This gas cap (the larger one) was on the 1937 when I got it. It was not the correct one, as I think it's for a senior or later car, and I was able to track down the proper junior cap.

But it has lots of oxidation and rust on it. In about 30 seconds of polishing with a shop rag and some Mothers it came out like this. All the rust and oxidation is gone. Now this has some deep scratches that the Mothers isn't going to fix, but I'm impressed with how much it cleaned up with just a little effort. I'm going to see what this does to my hubcaps and the aluminum cam covers next! It made the junior cap look like a mirror.

Attach file:

---

  20221209_143544 Large.jpeg (92.50 KB)


  20230509_085335 Large.jpeg (74.11 KB)


  ScreenShot 723.jpg (77.52 KB)

I had once a 47 Dodge with one wiped main bearing. The oil pressure was just OK when coasting or under light load, but dropped many pounds under load as the crank moved over to one side and really let the oil out.

The oil pump on your car is likely ok as they seldom give any troubles. More likely your engine will need its bearings checked. Any funny noises?

No telling how "loose" the motor is. I run Rotella 15-40 oil in my 327 motor which helped tremendously with blowby. Also a quart of Lucas Oil stabilizer and a long drive really helped to free up the stuck rings on my long slumbering engine.

The oil pump springs can be shimmed to increase spring pressure and increase oil pressure.

On my engine I'd say hot oil pressure at idle after a long run is around 10psi.

I'll have to see if I took a picture of it. I bought a NOS lock for my trunk and it was in the box.

If I remember it paper or rubber gasket that was the shape of the lock hole in the sheet metal and about 1/8 wide. If you look at the emblem plastic back, then gasket pretty much is a wide as that lip that goes around the lock.

Not sure if its reproduced or not. But should be able to make out of some gasket stock.