Howard and Mr. D,
Thanks for the info, the picture of the engine showing the location of the peephole was quite amusing. A previous owner did install a pointer that leans over the harmonic balancer pulley, but there are no real timing marks, just what I first thought was a rock chip in the paint that seems to be in the vicinity of where a timing mark might be located. Guess I will use it as a reference until I install something better. Seems I read online about something called "timing tape" that can be installed on the outer surface of the balancer to use when setting the timing. Thanks as well for the tip on using a vacuum gauge to fine-tune the timing.

It's always the small details that take the most time!

80/20 Rule.

Before I report on the overhaul of the engine, I would like to say something about the components that are directly attached to the engine and that have to be installed in order to progress the work to the point where the engine can be started for a test.
First … there are the two side panels that cover the area between the engine and the frame. Both sheets were in poor condition and the rusted areas had been filled with fiberglass mats. I also had to recreate these sheets. At first it looked problem-free, but then it turned out to be more difficult than expected. The problem was that I simply used the two old sheets as samples. But I didn't notice that the two outer edges of the sheets don't have to be at the same height. The side screwed to the motor runs horizontally. The slope screwed to the frame rises upwards as the frame becomes smaller in height. As a result, the surface of the entire sheet is twisted. Mainly the half funnel inserted/welded into the sheet and the recesses/edges do not allow the sheet to be subsequently deformed so that it adapts to the different heights. I also had to cut the half-funnel out of the “finished” component again and I screw the sheets to the engine and frame without this part, then I formed a new half-funnel and insert it into the now existing cutout and mark it. Then cut the half funnels again and fix them in their now correct position with welding points. Remove everything again, finish welding and you have the sheets as they should be. However, 2 days of additional work had gone by tougether with priming and painting.
Finishing the sheets was necessary to make the connecting pipe between the newly built muffler and the exhaust manifold so that it passes with a good gap between the engine mount and the cover plate.

Karl

Attach file:

---

  k-P1040628.JPG (94.82 KB)


  k-P1040630.JPG (136.45 KB)

Couple more photos of today. Cruising in Packard luxurious comfort. No convertible rattles.

Attach file:

---

  Two-1940-Super-Eight-Packards--9-20-24-1000181.jpg (2,865.85 KB)


  Packards,-Chuck,-Jim,-Joe--9-20-24-1000212.jpg (2,367.92 KB)


  Joe-and-Jim-in-Packard,-9-20-24-1000237.jpg (2,285.58 KB)

We are going back this February (2025) for ArtDeco fest. The Packard Rally only happens every two years, so that will be 2026 on the South Island. Once I get the firm details, I will pass them along.

First blanket on the way to North Carolina...thanks Jerry!

Quote:

I guess I was classifying Type F ATF as an "old" ATF, as opposed to the "modern" Dexrons or Mercons. From past posts I was under the impression that Type F was the best for the Ultramatics, and the primary reason was because the direct drive could/would slip with Dexron or Mercon and was due to the clutch composition, which may be something that I made up in my head.

Brian, in the post you referenced, brought up a couple of interesting points. He noticed a "moan" for the DD clutch under light throttle when using Dexron, which was remedied by switching to Type F. Something that has been reported by others. Presumably the groan is the DD clutch slipping before it fully engages. He also suggested that possibly a smoother shift may be achieved with Dexron because it is more slippery, but maybe that may also cause faster wear of the linings.

I can see where smoother shifting would be desirable, but not if the trade off is a transmission that moans as the DD engages. Is the "moan" caused by an incorrect combination of fluid and clutch materials, or simply the mechanics of the transmission? That is, are Dextron or Mercon, in general, are always going to be too slippery for our Ultramatics? I am currently running Type F with a bottle of Lucas Transmission Fix.

As I work towards rebuilding a transmission for my car, I find this is all very interesting! I guess what I'm trying to figure out is what is ideal for my Ultramatic. Baring any issues, such as excessive wear, should I get a rebuild kit from MM (KIT INCLUDES GASKETS, SEALS, BUSHINGS, AND HIGH RANGE FIBER CLUTCHES) and continue running Type F?

I find that my DD engages quite smoothly, which may very well be due to a "hard", or worn, DD clutch that is slipping more than it should when the DD is engaging.

I'm going to ask MM if they have a ATF recommendation after installing their rebuild kit.

BTW, it is raining in my part of the world, so I'm waiting to go for a test drive to see what I can figure out with my kick down.

There’s noise from everywhere,Gerd. Hey, it’s a convertible.
Today Chuck drove us in Bill’s 1940 Super 8 180 Club Sedan around Great Falls VA. Beautiful country. We decided we’d try this once a week, rotating thru Chuck’s ‘36 sedan, Bill’s ‘40 and my ‘40.

Attach file:

---

  WKH,-Joe,-Packards,-9-20-24-1000204.jpg (2,346.64 KB)

Thanks for posting. I want to go on that tour. Gorgeous scenery and a challenge for all cars. So great to see so many Packard’s out in the wide open spaces.

Thanks!!!!!