Secret handshake required, and a blood oath. Sorry.

I'm wondering if any of you OD experts can shed some light on a project. Was the 40 160 an R-9, 10, or 11? Are there other models/makes using the same OD housings, and like Porsche/VW cros-overs do you need to know the secret handshake? I'm thinkin if it's a BW unit that it may have been "industry wide" use and perhaps we can collect up what we need. Let's hear it guys n gals. What do ya know?

Nobody? Wow. This is a really 'rare' fitting huh?

Do not put radial tires on until you have exhausted fixing or replacing everything else up front. Once your "house is in order" you will find out there is no reason to have radial tires. Check king pins, tie rods and, as mentioned, the steering box has adjustments. If the steering box adjustment is already maxed out, I believe you can install washers or shims to continue to make more adjustments.

The center steering link (located directly under the radiator) is many times the main problem for steering problems. It cannot be replaced without removing the radiator. It is often frozen, with possible other damage as well. Grease monkeys (hired from Brand X companies) in the day were not aware that this joint needs to be lubricated regularly, so it often froze in place.

The overdrive light on a 1940 Packard should be above the instruments in the round knob that looks like the glove box knob. These are often offered on eBay. I don't know if someone has reproduced them or what, but I see them offered a lot.

The knob to the left of the light is indeed your Econo-drive. In the "in" position, it is engaged. Pull out to disengage. Read up on how to use it, as you don't want to push in or push out while the car is moving unless you know exactly when to do it.

In regards to Eric's comments on the Packard Museum (Citizens) in Dayton, that is why I suggested going there in person, after making an appointment. Point out what you want, pay for it, go (but look around, first, it's really a cool place to visit).

I just noticed some engine parts on ebay that might fit your car. You'll have to ask the seller about measurements to see if what they have is the correct size. I thin he had about three different engines, and at least one of them looked to be from 1931.

The original marks on my glass are about a quarter of an inch, just a little bit taller than in width. I think yours should be the same, but I'm not certain. I told a friend of mine that I was going to replace my glass, and he told me that he'd help me get the correct mark. That was a while ago, so I'll see if I can get more information for you.

Probably would have been good to replace wiring anyway. You wouldn't believe the number of problems that are caused by old wiring. And I'm not referring to safety problems, which, in itself, would be reason enough to replace old wiring.

be careful with the PB blaster route - it will soften them but you might have damage to the painted surface held in contact with the bumpers. How thick are they - I have some leftover stock I made 41 door check cushions from, you can have some if it looks like it will work.

After you have checked the othe other sources, particularly the pivot for the big idler arm in the center of the frame, you can useually adjust a lot of play out of the gear.

On gears through 47, you will need to pull the pitman arm, take the top cover off, and extract the roller asssembly. It pulls right out. Remove a few shims from where the shaft sits in the housing and reassemble. Tighten down the pusher screw on the top til it is just touching with the wheels straight ahead. Try it and repeat if necessary. Put in a new pitman seal while you are there

Here is the article.(I hope)

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I'm with Phil, This is real easy to use, must be for a troglodyte like me to be able to do so! You can even edit within the quote selected to include or exclude any of the text.