O_D has put a lot of miles on his 1934 since he got it.

Maybe try the chalk test? Never done it on a smaller tire, but on off-road tires I run a band of chalk across the tread and drive the vehicle forward and reverse on a level surface. Look at where the chalk was rubbed off and adjust the tire pressure accordingly. Tire pressure is good when it wears off evenly.

A 6.5 x 20 would be a bias ply tire. I'm not aware of what pressures Packard might have recommended.

One approach would be to get a recommendation from the tire manufacturer.

Another approach would be to compare the vehicle weight including gas, oil, water and a typical passenger and baggage load to the maximum weight carrying capacity of the 4 tires, as marked on the tire. As the two weights approach each other, the inflation pressure should approach the maximum pressure needed to bear that load. That information should be molded into the tire sidewall.

As mileage accumulates, check the tread wear pattern for signs of under- or overinflation and adjust pressure accordingly.

Sounds good to me. Would be interesting to see as I know some people drive their cars a LOT.

Highest number I recall seeing on here is 250k lifetime mileage.

Pretty sure Ross has put 50k on his 200 in the past 20 years but probably does a lot more per year on the shop truck.

Mike Dulinski, who I don't think is on here, has apparently been daily driving Packards for decades and I think would do something like 150k on each one before retiring it. Though he puts a Chrysler Imperial engines and transmission in his so that only half counts in my book. 😅

You have bias ply or radial?

Shouldn't matter if it's a single-lip seal but I always prelube seals.

Sometimes fluid leaks from around the seal also. There's some goop you can buy to seal the OD of a seal. Forget what it's called but they use it all the time at work (we make industrial equipment).

Regarding the floor pan being rusted through, my dad had told me that he always had a problem with the roof leaking and when it rained, the floor in that area would get wet. I believe the water from the roof found its way to this area, which does seem to be the lowest area, and then the rust progressed. Fortunately, in the time Dad had the car (since November 1960), it spent all but five years in the garage and out of the weather.

I’ll definitely need to do some close inspection when it’s time to take all the upholstery out, but everything I’ve seen so far seems to be very solid, including all the wood in the roof. I currently have the top off the car and have been able to look at the roof wood closely.

All things considered, I still consider myself pretty lucky as the floor pan appears to be the only significant rust. Although, I suspect I may find more on the passenger side running board as there is a significant bump in the rubber . I suspect that is due to rust underneath. But, looking from under the car, the there is no sign of rust. But, then again, everything has a serious layer of undercoating on it so I won’t know until the running boards come off. That’s still down the road a bit.

Thanks everyone. The seat is on hold. I have found that removing the bottom seat cushion helps with getting to the dash wiring. I’ve also found that a blanket padding the corners of the frame helps.

I did get around to in to taking a closer look at the floor pan just in front of the rear seat. I knew it was rusted through, but hadn’t actually looked. I don’t think rust encapsulation is going to do the trick!

Looks like a new floor pan is in order!








I did doctor up the front seat a bit. Mostly just reinforced the 60 year old duct tape.

I have used spray contact cement and it is sooo much better, much easier to get an even coat and on large areas like this you are not wasting time getting the glue on while it starts to kick off.
Be sure and scrub the rubber clean of any mould release before applying the glue.
Bob J.

You’ll probably be able to get it on more evenly with the aerosol but I still recommend sandblasting first.