Did a small project the other day. The headlight rings on my parts car were nearly perfect so I wanted to switch them out. The rings that came on the Panama weren't terrible, but they had some pitting:



The upper tabs were missing from both of the donor headlight rings. I found a tab from one of the original rings in the box of random pieces that came in the trunk of the Panama. I used that as a pattern to make another tab from a stainless steel bracket:



Then I glued the tab I made and the old tab onto the new rings with JB Weld:



After letting it cure overnight I popped both the rings on with no issue. They are rock solid and should do fine. I'm not sure if the JB Weld will hold up if I have to take them back off, but at least for now they are working.

That turned out nice. Same dye that you used on the seat frames?

FWIW, these are NLA as new manufacture. We're now having to modify the original part. Works almost as well. Just wanted to let those considering the purchase know this is the last chance to get new production.

jack vines

Have you re-torqued your cylinder head several times since putting the engine back together?

60 PSI may be close to normal for a 1930 engine. Check compression with the throttle open and with a good battery at full charge. Compression readings will be lower at higher elevations. I would run the engine until it has warmed up, then do the compression check. As for starting, it is normal for the engine to need choking on a cold start. If the engine runs well once started, you may have a problem with the choke adjustment, or the carburetor may be leaking fuel when sitting.

Seeking some advice: I’m looking at buying a 1930 Packard 7th series Standard Eight with the 320 engine. Engine was rebuilt just a few years ago due to combustion pressure moving into the cooling system. Was bored out and sleeved to factory dimensions. Now it won’t start when cold unless the air intake to the carb is blocked. It runs well cold or hot with no noise, no smoke, very smoothly. Once warmed up it starts easily. However, suffers from low compression on every cylinder. (60 psi across the board). Carb and fuel vacuum tank have both been professionally rebuilt recently. Valves have been adjusted. Does anyone have any ideas what is causing the low compression? I assume that is the reason for the hard cold starting. Thanks!

Thanks all. I think I have what I need to move forward.

The owners manual is incorrect.
The rear bulb should be an 1154 with offset locating pins as per the parts list, not an 1158 which has the locating pins directly opposite

Just chiming in because I did some work on my tail lights recently, the whole rebuild and just bulb replacement. Please excuse my rust...

1. If you're just changing the bulb (or want to get to the socket), take the metal tab and both push it toward the outside of the vehicle while gently pulling on the tab. So for example, if I'm working on the driver's side (i.e. left) tail light, push the tab to the left and pull. You can try working it gently with needle nose pliers if it doesn't seem to be doing anything. It's VERY easy for the socket to suddenly let go, and then you've got a broken bulb and glass inside the lens. Ask me how I know...

2. If you ever feel like getting into the whole reassembly of the tail light, the illustration from the Parts List is a must have. Found here:https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/partslist/viewplate.php?cat=19&PlateNumber=81&partslist=1948-1954

The second picture shows what the reinforcement bracket on the fender (4.16012) looks like installed on the vehicle. Might check Merritt, Tucson, Seattle, Packards SW, etc. to see if you can find a set. The studs can be made from 1/4-28 threaded rod. Best of luck!

p.s. 1154 (will have offset bayonets) is the correct bulb for the tail lights. The tail lights and parking lights are the same size bulb. The 1158 listed in the owner's manual is incorrect.

Attach file:

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  Socket.jpg (1,482.21 KB)


  Tail Light Bracket - Fender.jpg (1,435.21 KB)

O'Dave -- While you're in the neighborhood, spray the background gloss white. A Cord friend simply lined his with the shiny side of aluminum foil, but we learned that gloss white better reflects bulbs than that or silver or chrome paint.
Make sure your grounds are good.