Went out for a minute before I need to run some errands. When grounding the passenger side of the lock out switch, the red light does come on. There is continuity between the two terminals of the lock out switch, it is 50 ohms which is alot, but probably has always been that way, may or may not be correct.

I recall trhat the solenoid plunger seal on my '47 went bad once and would not let the plunger move competely in and out so maybe that is the problem although a long shot. Does the light come on when you drive it over the governor speed and you should hear the solenoid energize with a click when it does. The point set is adjustable with that screw but I don't know what the point gap should be. Unless you were fooling around with the points it shouldn't be the problem. You could easily test the wire connection on top of the governor with a continuity meter or test light if you take it off.

Thanks for all the advice. I will go out and play a bit later today. I did check the bulb with ohm meter, checked ok. Kickdown switch I just made sure the wires were connected. I think four wires, but not sure how to check these, which ones should show open or closed depending on position of the button. I did open the governor to carefully clean the points, pushed the little tab inside that pops the points closed and took the ohm meter from the end of the wire to inside contact and there was continuity. It looks new inside and when I spin by hand the two weights move and the inside spring does move up. Perhaps not enough, what I might be able to do is hold the governor in a jig and spin with an electric drill and check the wire with an ohm meter. As for the solenoid, I did not take any wires off, but one did come off and I put it back on. I can feel around the solenoid and that they are still all attached at this time. Something I thought of, is the solenoid is very tricky trying to get it hooked inside of the case. I am reasonably sure that this last time I did get it hooked as I pulled on it a bit and it would not come straight out of the hole. But, when bolting in plate the two bolts needed to put pressure on the solenoid to get it seated, I can't remember if this would be correct. Thanks again.

packprince -

Thanx for the additional views - especially showing the outer half of the wheelhouse. Most people see a little rust but can't understand why the quote is so high. Fact is, you don't really know what you're getting into without some exploratory surgey.

Some people think bondo and fiberglass is a cure-all (and it's surprising what you can find under previous repairs that used that stuff), but I prefer sheet metal restoration work be done with metal. While I do use bondo (in the minor shadetree work that I've done), it's very sparingly - just to level things out.

Keep up the good work!

Try a good local hardware store, mine has an assortment of sizes in nylon, brass, and copper, all of which should be acceptable. Just take the drain plug to get a size that fits snugly around the threads. Given a choice of materials, I'd take the copper.

I need to look at a valve body up close to offer suggestion but have to remember & find what box or cabinet they are in before committing. Will try and find today or tomorrow as long as my machines and customers co-operate. Hopefully some of the real mechanical guys on the forum will have a suggestion before then.

Think they are staked in place as you're doing but important thing is making sure pistons move freely, bores not scratched and nothing is distorted on rest of body.

Hi, Folks. I'm a definite beginner when it comes to owning/maintaining/repairing my newly-acquired 1949 Packard Super Eight. So, here's a simple question. I'm prepping to change the oil, and in searching for the gasket that goes with the oil drain plug, I can't find any Packard supplier that lists it as a part. I'd rather have one in hand BEFORE I do this, rather than examine the one I remove and trying to find a new one by matching the size. So, experts, what gasket size/material am I looking for...and do I need to go anywhere other than the auto parts store down the street to get it?

It sounds as if wiring intact to governor. Any chance the ground through governor was disrupted. It's provided by a small bar from a rivet on bakelite through a screw into governor body and then to transmission. Also, the indicator light completes it's path through the solenoid. Any chance of wires switched there when reinstalling or, since you said "felt solenoid vibrate" the solenoid ball end is not actually in the pocket so can't engage.

Well that all sounds good. You should also be sure that the lockout switch is closed when The rod is pushed in. If the red light does not come on when the car reaches the governor activation speed of about 22mph perhaps the governor is the problem. I haven't heard of a way to test the governor with the car stationary that I know but make sure that the points open and close and that they are clean. Is the kickdown switch OK? Test it with a test lamp to ensure it is closing and opening when It should although I doubt this is the issue. Check to make sure the buld is Ok and that the wire for the bulb on the solenoid is OK. Although it shouldn't make any difference in the operation of the overdrive the bulb is a good indiactor that the solenoid is energized. Does the light come on when you ground the lockout switch?

The word is Mystical, I am here for 11 hr a day and you will see some misspelled words. The old lady will rag if I stay to late so I try and hurry. Also John we are both wrong. The series 80 engine is 344 cubic in. I screwed the mathematical formula up. Ready

pi/4 X bore Squared X stroke X #cylinders

.7853975 X 3.312 squared X 5 x 8
I don't know how to make comuter do the squared sign so I wrote it. any way bore = 3.312 stroke = 5 and it sa straighta 8a