one false move with the alignment of the shaft into the impeller or the shaft into the bearing and your $60 is gone. I don't mind paying someone a reasonable fee for something they have done a lot.

Tom, I taken enough note of enough unmolested 30 engines to comment with the same degree of certainty about the engine detailing, though I don't think the valve rocker shaft castings were ever painted.

On my 34, since I stayed with babbit bearings, I thought it wise to keep the oil cooler intact and functioning by replacing the original heat exchanger core with a coil of high pressure finned flexible tubing; thus I put the modern spin-on filter inside the original Purolator L-6 cannister -- there are several conversion kit sources for this.

I saw Kanter also has water pump "repair kits" for 60 dollars. I figured that was all a rebuild shop would do, besides boiling and media blasting my old water pump.

I envy you guys with your garages. I keep my car in a common underground garage in the city, and when I work on it, I have to go to a "Hobby garage" where I can rent a lift and workspace by the hour. They have vices and hydraulic presses which is nice though.

Mal,

Lovely shot of the oil filter! I just love my macro, and I am sure you will too! Great progress on the car. It is going to be a beauty once you are done.

Dave (OD),

Thanks for the info on the engine color scheme. Is that pretty much the same thing for a 1930 engine? Particularly the carb. Was it painted black or left raw.

Tom

I'll have an answer for you tonight. It's a litte more complicated, the Green wire is always connected to +12V (hot) and the red and gray wires are shorted together (thru the shift relay)to ground in order to make the motor spin in one direction (stay tuned for the direction fo rotation) and the red and brown wires are connected together (to gorund), with a resistor in series (to slow the action in this directon of rotation--the system wants to turn faster in one direction than the other, this resistor is Autolite's fix)to turn in the other direction.

One word of caution--It is very easy to make the sector gear overtravel and jam against the housing, and the amount of torque required to break the secor free is in excess of what the motor can provide. Were you to make this mod I would recommend that you install rubber stop blocks inside the worm-sector gear chamber of the pushbutton actuator housing. There is about 3/8"-1/4" of free space between the sector gear and the housing at either direction of travel. a rubber block might act as a buffer and keep the gearing from locking up.

Robert Neal's "Packards at Speed" (Aero-Marine Publishing, 1995) is profusely illustrated and covers many of Packard engine's exploits in the air and on the water. It's a terrific addition to anyone's Packard library, as is it's companion book, "Packard Master Motobuilders". These are as much a "must have" book as the Kimes-edited tome. I believe both are still in print.

Hi everyone.
I would be interested in that DVD also. I'm new to the forum and came acrossed it in a Google search for info on Gar Woods Miss America X. I am working on a project to build an R/C version of it with my 10 yr old son.

Does anyone know anything about the 12-cyl supercharged Packard engines Gar Wood used? I need to find a car or airplane model with detailed engine to use in the boat.

Some good reading on the development of Miss America X
lesliefield.com/other_history/speedboat_kings_15_miss_america_x.htm

Thanks for your help.
Tom

There were some lovely pictures in this thread of a 1934 Eight export RHD chassis. I didn't follow enough to see who owned it but thought I'd make a few comments, based on how the domestic engines were finished. The oil cooler housing, the part on the water jacket, should be engine green, with a black filter. The lines to and from should be nickel-plated. The water inlet just below it should also be engine-green. The starter and generator should be wrinkle-black, not gloss black, and there is quite a bit of evidence that the brush cover on the starter was engine-green. The aluminum valve rocker shaft covers were naked aluminum, not painted engine-green. The EE-22 Stromberg was painted black, not naked castings. Not picking, just assuming someone might like to be aware of this.

I called someone. "DE" = Drive End.

However, we need to determine direction of selector shaft when Green and Brown are energized. Does Green and Brown select toward Park or Reverse????

The idea here is that i want to hook up a couple buttons DIRECT to the motor and BYPASSING everything else. One button will run the motor toward P and the other toward Rev.

Packard V8--I have a unit I'm putting the finishing touches on right now--I should have it on the test board tonight, I'll file a report as soon as I have it up and running.

I too saw the "CWDE" legend on the Autolite manual and have wondered is that is an abbrevitation for "clockwise driection".