The solenoids that do work are NAPA #ST56

Forgot to thank Jd in Kc! so thank you too.

Don

Thanks BH,BigKev & Randy,

The info has certainly been great to get. I have tried to break the engine free. First with PB blaster in the spark plug holes, letting it soak and trying to bust it loose with a breaker bar on the harmonic balancer bolt. Than I tried Diesel in the cylinders. Than I pulled the heads off and tried to pound them with a chunk of wood. This engine is just seized up real good. I plan on swapping motors and than dismantle the original engine and slowly rebuild it and than swap it out again at a later time.

Where do I get a good engine kit? I have read on here about a melling oil pump? What mods are absolutely necessary to make my Packard a good reliable runner?

Thanks,
Don

Just to complete the discussion about types of upper inner control arm bushings: in addition to the press-fit type, there was a screwed-in type. Although these are rare, my 1956 Executive 4-dr parts car has one upper arm that has screw-in bushings and the other side arm has press-in. Go figure.

I believe that the screw-in type is the one the manual refers to that must be replaced as an assembly. It's good to have several parts cars to get around this problem.

Craig

I cleaned up my gearbox on the outside and also removed the speedo cable - cleaned and lubricated it with graphite powder.

The cable seems fine and didnt bind at all, but it does not seem to engage into the gearbox. Doesnt seem to reach far enough. I am thinking that something is missing inside the box? Cant feel anything that it should be engaging to. Can feel what feels like a worm gear drive?

Any ideas?

Are you sending the block and heads out for chemical stripping? I would really, really recommend that rather than the usual auto parts store "hot tank" treatment.
I take everything to American Metal stripping in Toledo, and consider it well worth the drive time.

Don -

Welcome to the best place in the world to research Packard questions. Even if we don't have an immediate answer, just asking here, publicly, might help draw more information come out from under the woodwork.

I am working on a couple of tables for the site that will explain the build sheet option codes for 55th-56th Series. I don't have those quite ready for BigKev and don't have the files at work, but let me give you what I know from my own cars, along with some help from paint chip sets and parts book references - both of which are available here, free for the download:

5587 = 55th Series (1955) Four Hundred hardtope coupe

GL = two-tone paint, Moonstone (G) over Turquoise (L)

4766 = sequenced, serialized number (starting from 1001)

84 = interior trim set, black cloth and white leather with turquoise robe rail (for 55th Series only)

HEUH = fresh air heater, defroster, and front underseat heater

RUE = three-way tuning radio with electric antenna and rear compartment speaker

BU = power brake

PS = power steering

EWL = electric window lifts

ST = four-way power seat

SF = Solex (tinted) glass with shaded windshield

TLS = torsion-level suspension

The handwritten "R R" sounds like someone signing-off on the build.

As far as optional equipment, I suspect that a lot of these Senior coupes were built this way for '55 - second only to the Caribbean convertible that year.

Randys advice is excellent.

Try to start the tap catching good threads from the backside and DRY! If it feels good then add a little light oil or fuel oil as a lubricant. If it does not want to start then start out with some oil. There are three different types of taps. I would use a starting tap like used for cutting new threads. They are tappered at the starting end. The other two types are bottoming taps and so-called plug taps. Those kind can be used too but mite be more difficult to gauge.

If the threads are really bad u mite consider going to a metric or next size larger lug bolt which will require lite drilling and retapping with the next size tap.

I doubt that studs can be installed in these types of drums. Post a pic of the back side of the drum here. To use studs will probably require some precision machining of the back side of the drum to allow a flat place for the studs to seat. I's have to see the back side of the drum first to determine.

I think the first 4 items are in the same order as those on my '50 build sheet. If so they would decode as:

5587 - Model: The Four Hundred, Two Door Hardtop
GL - Paint Code: Moonstone over Turquoise
4766 - Production Sequence Number
84 - Trim Code: Black Cloth and White Genuine Leather (Turquoise Robe Rail)

I'd only be guessing at the rest.

BU - Back up lights? Baggy Underwear?
PS - Power Steering?
TLS - Torsion Level Suspension?

I would leave the bolts as they are. If you pick up some nice drums etc. they will already be set up properly. I agree with Keith, buy a tap and do it your self. Maybe come in from the back as those threads may not be so buggered up.