BigKev,

Hello,

I can't scan here at home, but I will type out what I see here on the paper:

5587- (circled in wax marker)
GL
4766
84
HEUH- (underlined in was marker)
RUE- (underlined in was marker)
BU
PS
EWL- (underlined in wax marker)
ST- (underlined in wax marker)
SF
TLS..
Handwritten in was marker is "Turq"

and hand written under it all is "R R"

Hope I have given you all the right Letters.

Don

Ask me....I own one!

I think Brian (BH) maybe able to decode most of those numbers. I am sure if you post a scan of it, he may be able to shed some light on it.

Hello Packard folks!

I stumbled on to this place by accident and sure glad I did. I felt like the lone soldier fortified by walls surrounded by Ford,Chevy,& Mopar people. I had given up hope but now feel rejuvenated knowing you are here!

I have a '55 400. It has a stuck 352, from being parked (with a bad treadleVac back in 1972). It has 72,000 and was told it ran great when it was parked. I have acquired another running Packard 352 for a transplant planned for later this spring.

I have poked around and found a build sheet taped to the back of the glove box liner. I was wondering if anyone knew, or could direct me to a place that I could use to decode the numbers/letters on this ancient scroll.

Thanks,

Don

You can ask me.....I own one!!

Does your wife have any single sisters for ME!!!

buy a $6.00 tap and clean them up yourself. That's all a machine shop will do.

Has any here every tried to convert from lug bolts to lug nut on the 55 and prior years by having wheel studs pressed into the stock drums?

Just curious on what would be involved in that. I ask because my rear drums have a few cross threaded holes in them (from previous owners). Or should I just take the drums to a machine shop for them to try to clean up the threads? I am just trying to think what would be better going forward for my driver.

Now that spring is here I have a tree house to build and my lovely wife bought me a new lift for my birthday so I'll want to install that too! Frame is nearly all clean and ready for paint.

The camshaft bearings have their own oil supply, so that isn't what hurt the cam. The cylinder walls may not have received enough oil to lube them properly. This is the second time I've heard about rods or pistons being installed wrong. A fellow Packard owner in Buffalo had bought a 56 400 that a Ford mechanic put together trusting his memory rather than the shop manual. Just as he got to Warren Ohio the engine seized and took the tops off several pistons. I think the car is still just sitting in his garage. Although I know some 352 engines have been bored out to 374, I would have the block measured carefully before that is attempted. If the block is boiled out and then baked and shotpeened it should be free of sediment. Perhaps Jack Vines and some other knowledgeable V8 engine folks will chime in here. I wish you good luck on your project.

Looks like you are tearing right into it! Do you have any body pictures you can share with us?

I guess that its time to start posting some pisc of my Clipper now that the real work has begun. Since this was one of the snowiest winters on record here in Detroit, I was able to work much on my car this winter. Having a garage that is only 20x20, its not really possible to work in the winter with the door closed, so things have been at a stand still since last fall. Finally got the car moved to my mechanic about two weeks ago, and here is what has been found so far.
The cooling system looked fine until the engine was torn down. The block water jacket was almost completely filled with sediment. The casting plugs
were almost rusted through, the sediment kept them from leaking. Most of the valve stems are bent and the tolerances on the valve guides is way, way off. The cylinder tolerances are also way off. my 352 is going to become a 374. And as long as we're in the cylinder, a previous mechanic had installed the pistons backward, so that the oil groove on the connecting rods was facing away from the camshaft. Thus leading to the next problem. Without lubrication the camshaft has damaged, now requiring a regrinding if its possible.
Moving on, the crankshaft oil seal was bent, and not properly seated, so there was quite a bit of oil in the timing case and wear on the timing chain. Now on to the fuel system, the original steel fuel line had been disconnected and a rubber line installed, ok..... but not such a good idea to weave it through the torsion bars and between the exhaust manifold and the block.

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