And just to underscore what I've been telling you about the absurdity of all those "concerned neighbors" the TV news and Detroit newspapers trot out for the cameras anytime the Packard plant is discussed.

I just went to Detroit for a funeral. While there, I took a quick side trip to see my old friend, the Packard plant! Heartbreaking as it has been for many a year.

But HERE is what has happened to the old Packard Motel where execs used to stay while visiting the plant...

As I used to say in automotive product planning meetings... "What looks better? Real wood that looks fake? Or fake wood that looks real?????"

Looks like galvanic corrosion. If you look closely it appears to be around the steel pan bolts and aluminum crankcase threads.

Galvanic corrosion is typically caused when two dissimilar metals are improperly coupled together in a corrosive environment.

Galvanic corrosion is caused by an electrochemical reaction between different classifications of metals rubbing against each other in wet or grimy conditions. This type of corrosion commonly occurs between aluminum and cast iron; copper and steel; and stainless steel and aluminum.

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You got that right Big Kev. Another option to get at the dash work is shown below as my wife Shelley shot me doing wiring before I had the engine/tranny back in. With the floor boards and toe board out I could get at the under dash easy from up through the floor.
I realize it would mean some disassembly again but the fasteners are all new and no damage to your upholstery is required. I have found just about everything I have done on the car requires things to be taken apart and put back together at least 3 times!
Bob J.

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On one of the spare Jag cylinder heads I had, there was corrosion like that. It was aluminum. The head was stored in a basement on concrete that regularly got wet.

Is the cover aluminum? Perhaps it has a crack in it.

I'm sure the fact your car has a roll up divider window behind the seat complicates everything.

For sure! Just the small bit I have done under the dash after the seat was put back in was VERY difficult.
Yes, it looks to me that you would need to remove that strip across the top on the back pad, that done, and uncover any gusset access to the bottom may expose how it is fastened into the car. Once the back pad is out that would likely expose fasteners that hold the cheek panels to the car and show further fasteners to release the entire frame from the car. It is certainly different than mine but I expect that the paradigm of concealed fastenings is similar.
Certainly not made for maintenance but rather appearance!
Bob J.

Jack I suppose it's worth asking how to tell the difference between the two?

I assume the cast has that "sand cast" look to it and the forged not?

Looks like some good progress there Ross!

On the unpainted trim, I never thought about that for my car but I know cleaning my worn trim will strip off all the paint anyway and I'll have to redo it with a paint marker. So I think I'll test slapping one side back on the car unpainted and see how it looks.

Thanks, Bob.

I do suspect that the seat must have been upholstered after being installed in the car. The best I can tell is that the side panels are likely screwed to the wood frame. If so, the screws are covered by the upholstery.

So, if it all comes out as an assembly, I’m missing something. I suspect that its as you indicate that there are parts I can’t see or access without removing the upholstery first.

I was hoping to be able to remove it so I could use rust encapsulator on the floor. It would also make it much easier to re-do the wiring under the dash. The wood frame is a real back-breaker.