Some more progress....After removing those dents/burrs, I was able to install the axle and bearing assemblys easily and also with a light hammer blow move them back and forth to check the free play. However with my new Timken bearings and "china races", the needed shim stack thickness was still about 0.095 inch which seemed like alot.
After a lot of thinking, I put back the old bearing races (Bower races) back with the new bearings, and was able to get .004 inch clearance while using one 0.020 shim on the drivers side, and on the passenger an .020 and an .005 shim.
(When I took the car apart, it only hat one .005" shim more than what it is now).
I am now happy that I can at least put things together with a reassonable amount of shimms and have the correct tolerance.

The old bearing races still looked good, so I think I am just going to use them. I was able to measure the thickness of the new bearing races, and that looked good. However, I am not able to measure the cone section of the race, which I think might be out of tolerance.

This has been an ordeal to get right. I can pull and install axles and measure endplay in my sleep by now. I also just got a new dial indicator and stand to measre this all with! Fancy new toy

The seller claims the 120 drives. If there is no big twisted or rusty surprise, I will be pulling it on the rollback to head home. The 160 is near by the 120. I'm kinda thinking about picking up both....just can't do both at the same time. This particular 120 is so far the best choice for what I want to do. Go through all mechanicals, do a decent at home paint job and take it to the Great Race next year. The 160 would require undivided effort to get it done in a year. It's probably possible to do. However, with lots of irons in the fire, I have multiple other projects going on at the same time. House, transmission shop/business, other cars, trucks, equipment, bus and of course family.
Here is some of what I like to do:
youtube.com/@scatteredrustyprojects/videos

No idea what condition your 120 is, but as a donor car, that 160 is worth every penny for what you would need.

Really wishing I could un-see...

thanks for the link. I prefer the 40 with the headlights suspended.

Quote:

I know 41-2 better than 40, but the front fenders should be the same. Sidemount and non-sidemount cars used different front springs because of the weight difference

Many body parts are the same between the 1801 and 1803 models

Front sheet metal on 1940 160's is the same as the 120's so the parts are interchangeable. Side Mounts were available on all body styles. I have seen more than a few coupes and convertibles with them.

1934 Packard 1100
chicago.craigslist.org/nch/cto/d/deerfield-mr/7756721384.html

1936 twelve formal sedan, priced plenty high
jacksonville.craigslist.org/ctd/d/east-p ... packard-twelve-1407/7763378787.html

In 48 Packard standardized all their engines to a 3 1/2" bore. It had first appeared on the six (245), then the Super Eight (356) and lastly on the new 288 and 327. This means that the 288 and 327 and the 356 are all very close to the same length. In fact these all take the same head gasket and you can swap heads around for a compression ratio that you like.

Here's a 1941 160 convertible coupe for sale.

losangeles.craigslist.org/lgb/cto/d/idyl ... 1-packard-160-super/7757513836.html