I can't say for certain exactly how Packard did their woodgrained dashes and window trim but there is a video produced by the people at GrainIt Technologies on the history of woodgraining. In the video they show examples of procedures used including some showing various pieces being made in an auto factory of that era. I would imagine Packard followed the method where a large prepainted sheet of metal was cut and formed in a stamping press.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0RT9RCAV89s&t=50s

The DIY repro procedure using the plates and rollers that GrainIt came up with works fairly well after a bit of practice even for non talented people. If you are not interested in the DIY approach there are some who offer their services to refinish pieces using the GrainIt method along with some who do the old school talent needed methods of hand painting and using various things like sponges, rags, and feathers to form the patterns

Thanks for the replies. It looks like I didn't mention in the initial post that this is a 1940 160 club coupe. But, you guys got it!

Is the wood grain on the dash painted on or like a decal?

Mark

I have passively collected Six Manuals and looking to maybe add more to what I have. I am not looking for reprints. I have the following years already (1912, 1921, 1925, 1926, 1939). I have a 1934 120 manual (mint minus pencil writing - owners name?) and 1926 Eight (expected cover age) I'd be willing to trade (I'll part with those for a reasonable offer to someone trying to match it to a car they own).

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I missed my daily interaction with PackardInfo too. Withdrawal isn't nice.

Thank you.
I looked in the Body chapter, gave up, and posted here.

Hello !
I’m at the time restoring my 1929 pacard 626, at the time I’am looking for both front doors for a 626/526 in any condition. Needs to be a 3 hinge type, mine is a converteble coupe but I think I can make any door work for a 525/626.

I am also looking for a rear leaf spring, i only have one.

Im the making I’m also looking for any dimentions and pictures of the wood frame inside the car as mine is missing the rear end. Exept the rumble back

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There is a fairly good description in section 10 -- Fenders and Sheet Metal of the Service Manual. Basically in addition to the radiator top splasher there are screws on each side from the inside of fender under the headlights and one on the outside under the side chrome pieces. A pair of brackets or support bars between the radiator cradle and grill is also used toward the bottom of grille.

On that outside screw under the fender side trim, depending on how the fenders are set to do the hood gap there may be a space between the tab on the grill and the fender sheetmetal... Do not try and snug that screw down to bend the tab if there is much space. Place a washer or shim or something to fill the space before tightening the screw or you stand a good chance of breaking the grille tab off. The side chrome end slides in under the grille corner so you may need to sort of finagle the grill side to side and get a test fit for the side chrome to figure any shims out before tightening the attaching bolts.

Really hard to try and second guess someone who has done their own mods. I know I am guilty of doing some but do try and leave diagrams for the next person to figure out whatever I have done.

One thing when you are testing switches for working the reverse light is typically in that era the headlights had to be on before the backup lights would get power. That could still be the case so if you had the headlights off the first time maybe try the switches again with headlights on.

The black button sure does look like an aftermarket horn button and if the center of the wheel button didn't work or the horn started to blow at inopportune times that was often a quick cure. You might see if the stock wheel button wire is coming out the center at end of the steering box and is connected to the main loom. That would be the original wire connection to work the horn relay and where it exited the box was often a point of shorting and other troubles as the old rubber insulation dried or got grease soaked and let the wire short.

Per the 1940 Data Book [160] (available for free download in the Literature Archive):

"Window garnish mouldings with wainscotting below are
handsomely finished in silver grey aspen graining to match
the instrument panel. Even the little rubber plungers in
the rear window mouldings which control the door locks
are in harmonizing color. Front door locks are of the remote
control type—safe and positive always."

It has been 10 years since I removed the grill from the 400.
All the photos that I took are long gone.

So, I am having some difficulty figuring out how it all bolts to the front of the car.
Its all put together just not sure how it mounts.
Any photos would be appreciated.

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