1954 Packard and Packard Clipper original sales brochures in fair condition. Both originals for $25.00 plus shipping. Call or text 210-260-5646 or email: Will@rpland.com for more Packard Junior series 1935-1941 parts, Visit my website at: www.rpland.com/packardparts for over 300 Packard parts with pictures. There are many more parts, but too many to list.

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  1954 PACKARD AND PACKARD CLIPPER SALES BROCHURE 2 EACH.jpg (2,730.62 KB)

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So there is a lot of "stuff" in the paint. Almost looks like dried wax, or something that spilled and dried on it. That was the main reason I wanted to go to town on it....you are thinking bad idea? Also, maybe a dumb question, but are there supposed to be one or two hood props? It seems awkward if you put it down on the opposite you need it next time!

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So, he had new wheel cylinders and flex lines installed when he bought the car five years ago, and then didn't drive it after that (which makes zero sense to me but so be it). Thoughts on that? I might have to rebuild the master cyl though. I see signs of weeping there.

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It did, and I drove it about two miles, and they were super thumpy lol. I have a set of diamondback radials waiting to be installed. It was good to do that little bit as first car with manual steering, manual brakes and column manual, so it was good to do some light parking lot/down the street drives anyway.

Sorry. Too late I came up with this idea in the night for Blanche, and I ruined the one in my car too, but it may help future disassemblers.
The attached PDF posits another way to grip the escutcheon without marring the thin brass cover.
Hope it works for someone in the future.
Bob J.

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Switch Disassembly Possibility.pdf Size: 30.75 KB; Hits: 120

I'm looking for comments, recommendations, procedures and kits for this conversion. I would like to eventually add an aftermarket AC. My current status (pardon) is that my voltage regulator (6V) has failed again and so has my battery. For one thing, will I need a different starter?

Thanks BK! Agree on the documenting and labeling idea.

Also, I see you had the dashboard panels redone on the Jackard. Did you do the woodgrain yourself? Or send them out to get done? I think as I have mine apart I want to venture down that road assuming it is not too cost prohibitive.

Ben

How are the points replaced on a 443? I have an early version (35 engine #) with a
Delco distributor. The points are under the breaker plate and I cannot seem to
get the top part of the distributor off.
Thanks, Mike

Rotting 55 Custom in NY. Asking 1300, but surely worth no more than 500. Somehow even the suspension is broken and random parts have been picked out of the interior.

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Love that quietly elegant, understated gray. Don't change that!

Unmolested originals are rare these days. Do not use anything that says "cleaner" or "polish." Just gently wash and wax with Meguiar's or Mother's pure wax so it glows.

1948-50 Packards veered to being under-tired, so make sure you carry 30-32 psi cold in all four if bias tires.

DOT 5 silicone brake fluid is the only way to go. You'll never have to rebuild a wheel/master cylinder again. Non-hydroscopic; doesn't absorb moisture from the ambient air.
Full synthetic motor oil. Avoid antifreeze unless your car exposed to two consecutive nights of hard freeze (below 30). Reverse osmosis water and a good rust/corrosion inhibitor like No-Rosion.com or Redline Water Wetter. Nothing else. Grease also the shift linkage pivot points. Poke a straightened paper clip in the differential vent, make sure it's clear.
Refill distributor grease cup and give it a turn every 1,000 miles. Molybdenum/graphite chassis grease best for that and all else. Lithium grease for speedometer cable.