The horn button surround on my 633 could be removed by pushing it down and turning it anticlockwise, I expect the 526 would be the same.

Oils that gum up or creep can cause problems. Oil will tend to attract debris which will cause problems. I'd consider one of the specialty oils which are supposed to resist creep, gumming, or drying out. Any dust, lint, paint flakes, or rust powder present inside the speedo will likely cause problems sooner or later. The odometer drum and odometer drive can also need cleaning or lube or both.

Thanks for the oil recommendations guys.

I spent a good part of the day looking at videos on how speedometers work, and how to service/repair them. One of those was for a Smiths unit, which featured an animated assembly of what looked like 3D CAD renderings of the individual parts . . . quite interesting. I also looked into the oils available for clocks and such, one of which was a liquid that evaporated and left a Teflon dry film behind for lubrication. I think I’ll postpone the speedometer task for a week to stock-up on these specialty lubes, which are bulk liquids, not aerosol cans. After a few of the videos I believe I’ve narrowed the areas that could produce a sticking needle as the only symptom. I appreciate Bob J’s comment on manually moving the needle to 50 mph to confirm the fault . . . it will surely be used to indicate whether the servicing has a chance of being successful. I’ll post a follow-up.

dp

Flow restricter in.

For coolant

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Trying to find out how to remove the horn ring from the steering wheel to access the wiring. Tried looking at the Packard Paddock, but nothing is archived there. Tried finding contact information for Tom Wilcox to no avail.

Any ideas?

The the 54 you turn it one way to make the dash light brighter. Turn fully thr other way, the dash lights go out, and the dome light comes on.

Beautiful looks great Kev

Quote:
I believe that prior to the 24th series instrument lights had a separate switch. They were powered from the headlight switch so operated only when that was on. In some years or models the instrument bulbs were infinitely variable by turning a rheostat and in other years they had discrete brightness levels where they were just on or in some instances a rotary or push pull switch also selected a fixed resistor for two or three briteness levels.

With the 24th series onward they combined the instrument light rheostat with the headlight switch and as an extra added attraction they also provided in the headlight switch an on/off function for the driver to control some of the courtesy lights. Which set of bulbs were controlled was determined by the direction the knob was turned.

My 54 is a pull out type as well. But the knob twists which as at the dimmer for the dash lights.