Make sure you let us know what the fix is!

Thanks all, will start with taking the side covers off, I am sure they will be clean in the galley side, as I change the oil approximately every 4 to 500 miles. So will start there and can pull the head next. Before I pull the head will start with the diesel oil soak, it won't hurt and may make freeing up valves a bit easier? I have all the tools and spring compressors needed to do a valve job if needed. But, I did a valve job around ten years and a couple thousand miles ago, so not anticipating needing complete job again?
Another question, in the past always got a carburetor rebuild kit and did my own carburetors. May do again, or send out? When I do mine I leave the float the same. Change the needle and seat but careful not to bent the floats. If I should need to set the float level for the Stromberg AAV 26 how do you do that? I have an extra light 6 volt electric pump with hoses and adapters to connect to most carburetors so I should be able to pump gas into the carb and see where it stops, but then on the Stromberg as I remember when you take the top off of the carburetor the floats come off also?
Who is selling the best carburetor kit right now?
Thanks mucho!!

Even if you don't use it, i'd keep the overdrive.

The car is more desirable with it.

You would need to change the driveshaft too and also the rear end with overdrive has a different ratio than without. I can’t help with the rear end but I’m pretty sure that I have a non-overdrive driveshaft at my shop.

Quote:

There could have been misfiring, but to my knowledge that shouldn't damage the valves at all. You just have junk on the valve stems.

I seriously doubt it.

What BigKev said. Had the same problem with my '37 when I swapped the (better looking) '40 cap. Stalled the car within two miles. Baffled me. Rebuilt the fuel pump. same thing. Pulled the cap.

Ran perfectly.

I had several weekends working on my '40 110, with cracked fenders, severe damage on the lower front edges of the fenders, and metal far to thin to weld with the Harbor Freight wire feed.

Yeah, that was fun.

I did tack-weld in a 3/16" rod on almost all of the lower edges of the fenders, and welded in patches behind the cracks on one fender, and riveted the other. Then a layer of fiberglass-filler, a layer of fiberglass, and another layer of filler. The leading 1/4 of the front fenders was thin enough to dent with my thumb. The (trash quality) fenders are much stronger now. The repairs will be primed and painted body-color, but the rest of the patina will remain.

Thank you all so far. One thing I did notice inside of the distributor the rotor cracked at the base and was able to rotate a bit on the shaft. Might it be possible if there was any misfiring cause damage to the valves?

Stuck valves, all day long.

I had stuck valves in my '37 237 and my '40 110. I soaked them both in Marvel Mystery Oil, Diesel, and a few other concoctions.

Pretty much zero effect.

I pulled the heads, intake/exhaust manifolds and opened up the lifter galleries; in both cases the No 3 and 4 valves were stuck open. On the '37, the tappets of the day had a dome-topped screw-type adjustment. Some moron ground them flat, and then with wear over the years, the screw face grew a divot from the valve touching it. Repaired that. Massive amount of crud on all the valve stems; it was not easy getting the "packard" script valves out of the heads but eventually I succeeded. Cleaned them up with a fiber wheel on a buffer, put them back in the engine and with the repaired tappets, the engine runs like a sewing machine.

Similiar effort on the '40 (with a '46 engine in it) but haven't fired that up yet.


Run non ethanol gasoline, and run the engine long enough to get to temperature, and run it monthly.


Thank me later.