I dunno I kinda like it. Maybe I’ll hook up some dimmers and I can get a real gradual start and really fine tune that spark once and for all. Maybe we’ve had it all wrong with automotive switches and toggles. Maybe we shouldn’t stop there… imagine a radiator neck with a flusher like a toilet!

Thanks all! I tried rebuilding the unit on my car when I first got it years ago and must have done something wrong because when Then and Now redid it, it worked. I think the carter units are what came on the car but I just can't find the number specifically in terms of the M2049S vs the M946S. The other unit, looks like an AC style, and absolutely I agree I wouldn't bolt it in as is without a rebuild. 53Cavalier interestingly that video is from the place that I use to rebuild my pumps! It's close to where I live so I can go in and drop it off and actually speak to people. They also do it on a quick turnaround. They say it's a 48 Packard pump on the video and it looks like the Ampco unit I have. They also have this similar video:youtube.com/watch?v=j6fgbsNyhbE where they rebuild an M946s about 5 years ago saying its off a 49 Packard... I wonder if it was mine? The timeline matches when I needed mine rebuilt and there aren't that many on the road here. That video and this post is what comes up on google when you search Carter M946S fuel pump. The manual doesn't seem to list the fuel pumps, just the carbs, though my copy is down in the car to doublecheck that.

From what I've been finding here and elsewhere, it seems either carter will likely work (maybe the AC too). So I'll probably have the 2049 rebuilt since it's out of the car already and so I don't have to go without a car for a week.

Thanks Todd, I think the 644s is the Carter carb. I will keep yours in mind though when I get my new engine in. I’ll need a carb in better shape than mine at that point.

Hi All,

I believe my fuel pump is on the way out, the glass bowl won’t stay consistently full. The car also is having some intermittent running issues still when restarted hot. It’s possibly the flex line collapsing, but I’m aiming to replace that and get the pump rebuilt anyway since I’m close to then-and-now and it’s relatively cheap insurance.

I’m spinning a bit with all the pumps and numbers in my research and hoping someone can set me straight. The car is a 49 2262-9 288ci deluxe 3spd no electro clutch. Im wondering 1. What is correct for the car 2. What will work on the car 3. What’s an outlier that I won’t need. I have a parts haul that came with all sorts of things mostly useful for a 22nd but a few things for other models or engines. Here’s the breakdown:

-on the car is a Carter M946S (rebuilt by then-and-now around 2018 and in use since)
-I have a “core” M2049S
-also a “NOS” Ampco 9116A which came in a box stating Packard 8cyl 48-50, but it looks very different than my carters with its little chrome hat.
-there was also a rebuild kit labeled for 48 PAC, number FPK104

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Thanks, I’ll look at testing the coil, it’s pretty new but I have heard that the new Napa ones can go bad quick. It also came to me dented and in a box that was opened about 50 times previously so maybe it wasn’t the greatest to begin with. I’m mainly concerned about the vacuum advance or the weights, both of which I know minimally what to do if they’re bad but it sure seems like it goes off-time with throttle and certainly with load.

Hi All,

I’m trying to check these points to see if they’re correct for my 22nd 288 with the Autolite 4502b distributor. I can’t find references to check the PPP numbers. These came with a load of spare parts, but there was also a delco distributor thrown in there.

Having a hell of a time figuring out the car. Idles fine but off idle it’s really rough to the point of unrunnable. Under load forget it. Doesn’t seem to be fuel delivery, I’m sorting through points/distributor now suspecting that. Started somewhat intermittently while driving, almost felt like a hard short, then over a day or two it got bad.

Thank you!

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Thanks Howard. So is that “61-rw” on the diagram? I think the color threw me off, I know it’s faded but it really looks like it’s a yellow or white wire with red marks, not a red wire… but maybe that’s the fading? All of them look yellow really except the dark ones. I’d really like to disconnect it for now so there’s not power shorting out somewhere.

Hi all,

I sorted an ignition coil wire short today and while I was contorted under the dash it got me wondering about the vanity lights, cigarette lighter, and switch supplying power to the rear of the passenger compartment. I am still analyzing the wiring diagram, but since none of these things work in my car and I’m not going to rip apart the headliner, I was hoping to disconnect the power and ideally decrease further short risk. There’s this one bigger wire that seems to go up to the rear loom, is that what provides the power to the interior lights etc? I’ve paralleled it with a red line, it also seems someone has put tape on the connector.

Edit: sorry this is a 49 deluxe 2262, no OD/EC

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Hah! If you’re interested I’d pay for that work in beer and bad jokes! I am seriously considering finding a place that will just get it done but that’s getting pretty hard to come by unless you want to pay 100k for a full concourse restoration and be on a waitlist for however long for the privilege!! If I had the space, money, time, and skill I suppose I’d just live alone with my perfect Packards no one ever sees though.

It sat for years and years, but looking in the crankcase and valves looks like there’s build grease on things. Not an outside or wet engine that’s for sure but it also wasn’t hermetically sealed. I trust the build and overall storage, but the time is my main concerning variable.

Seems like the vibration damper screw torque spec is 130-150, so sounds like setting the torque wrench to that and giving it a post soak wiggle is in order. I think my initial effort was under that since I just poured the MMO in a minute before and I was trying to be cautious.