I had to take time off again due my health, but I'm back on it now!

Ok here is What I'm getting;

When the #8 exhaust valve just breaks from the tappet after completing it's exhaust cycle, I am left with the mark on the cam gear sitting in the 10 o'clock position.(looking up toward the fan blower direction)

Rather than saying a 4 o'clock position to meet side by side with the crank timming mark.

When my timming marks line up side by side then No #8 tappet exhaust plunger is not in the position of loosening it self from the valve just after closing of the valve.

But when #8 exhaust valve and plunger just unmate from each other the cam gear mark shows 180` off from a side by side with the drive gear.

As for #1 combustion stroke I was just noting where in position it was at.

I've been around and around on the timing.

According to the service manual on the "300" engine.

With the timing chain off I can turn my cam (with the gear on) around to where the #8 exhaust valve finishes it's cycle just at the point to where I can turn the tappet plunger by finger.
Leave that there and my cam gear is 180` from the crankshaft.

I can now turn my crankshaft with out the chain on to where the pointer is pointing at 4` after top dead center and that leaves the crankshaft timming mark in near perfect position.

So then leaving the cam and crankshaft in them set positions.
I then put the chain on and then turning the the crankshaft gear and cam with the chain on the marks will line up together side by side but obviously after that rotation moving away the #8 exhaust set position and 4` atdc set position.

Also that puts my number one firing stroke at about 48` after top dead center from the pointer.

What am I not getting here? I am following the book in the valve timing.

A bit flustered..

I was just looking at that battery on line.

My O'Reillys I bought in April 2015 is a joke that's not funny, the date on the battery is February 2015.

Using this year and half old battery that was kept tendered to try and start my fresh gone thru motor is frustrating!
I feel robbed especially after talking with O'Reillys telling me I'm stuck with it or buy a new one from them. (Hardly)

The Napa battery gives you a 30 month (2-1/2yrs) warranty and that's good compared to my 1 yr warranty.
And why only a one year?
Is it because it's a 6 volt when 12 volts are 3 yr?

Anyhow nice to see this thread after just finding this Napa battery online...

I didn't realize there were so many Packard guys in the West burbs of Il.

My mom's 54' n I are from Elmwood. Park.

Gotcha,
In my mind I pictured it different, like a flat blade that turns with the knob making contact with heads on the studs.

It wasn't too bad in price about $41 and some change with tax.

I'll make a bracket and install it after my hospital stay.

It sure is a heavy duty switch, the studs are brass so if there is silver contacts they must be sealed inside, or the switch is a different part number in the box.
But that's ok if it is, it was only a dollar difference.

So what I ordered is a good thing?
When I noticed about the silver I figured that would be more accesble for oxidizing.

I figured it being mounted in the engine bay area, it would be a better choice.

Thank you Pat I will look.

Although I did order from Napa the Cole Hersee. 2484-06 that has the rubber O rings for weather resistant as shown in the chart, but looking back at the chart now I noticed it will have silver contacts instead of brass or copper.
It does say it will still pass the same amperage through it.
I pick it up tomorrow.

Yes in a 54'.