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Re: cylinder compression
#1
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Ken_P
Agree with John.

Did you perform the test with the engine throttle plates open?

You can also put a squirt or two of oil down each spark plug holes- if the compression goes up, the wear is in the ring/cylinder wall; if no change, a simple valve job might improve your numbers.

That said, as discussed, how it runs is a bigger piece of the puzzle.

Posted on: 6/10 18:55
1937 120 1092 - Original survivor for driving and continued preservation.
http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/mod ... p?topic_id=16514&forum=10

1937 115 1082 - Total basket case, partial restoration, sold Hershey 2015
https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/mod ... &order=ASC&status=&mode=0
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Re: Thanks to Ross!!
#2
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Ken_P
That’s awesome! Congratulations!

Posted on: 6/3 21:24
1937 120 1092 - Original survivor for driving and continued preservation.
http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/mod ... p?topic_id=16514&forum=10

1937 115 1082 - Total basket case, partial restoration, sold Hershey 2015
https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/mod ... &order=ASC&status=&mode=0
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Re: Thanks to Ross!!
#3
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Ken_P
Ross is a hero! He helped me several times last summer when I was doing my in-frame!

On the AACA forums there is a guy who claims “90% of all carb problems are ignition related” - I think he’s probably right.

Posted on: 6/3 19:03
1937 120 1092 - Original survivor for driving and continued preservation.
http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/mod ... p?topic_id=16514&forum=10

1937 115 1082 - Total basket case, partial restoration, sold Hershey 2015
https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/mod ... &order=ASC&status=&mode=0
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Re: Copper Nickel Brake Line
#4
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Ken_P
I bought a 25’ roll of the copper nickel, and a good flare tool and did them all myself. I found the Cu-Ni very easy to work with, and by starting from a roll, I had no extra joints.

Eastwood has a pro flaring tool that looks really good, although I haven’t used it.

Good luck, whichever way you go.

Posted on: 5/30 18:47
1937 120 1092 - Original survivor for driving and continued preservation.
http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/mod ... p?topic_id=16514&forum=10

1937 115 1082 - Total basket case, partial restoration, sold Hershey 2015
https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/mod ... &order=ASC&status=&mode=0
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Re: KPack's 1954 Panama
#5
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Ken_P
Awesome! Glad you found it, and glad it was so simple!

Enjoy the fruits of your labor this summer!

Posted on: 5/30 6:34
1937 120 1092 - Original survivor for driving and continued preservation.
http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/mod ... p?topic_id=16514&forum=10

1937 115 1082 - Total basket case, partial restoration, sold Hershey 2015
https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/mod ... &order=ASC&status=&mode=0
 Top 


Re: The "After Eight" Roadster
#6
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Ken_P
Agree- it’s looking good!

Posted on: 5/30 6:33
1937 120 1092 - Original survivor for driving and continued preservation.
http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/mod ... p?topic_id=16514&forum=10

1937 115 1082 - Total basket case, partial restoration, sold Hershey 2015
https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/mod ... &order=ASC&status=&mode=0
 Top 


Re: KPack's 1954 Panama
#7
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Ken_P
I know you probably don't want to hear this, but it might be a good idea to start looking for a spare axle assembly.

I agree, whatever caused the damage to your rear end seemed significant. It might be worth finding some spare parts in case your axleshaft or housing is bent.

Posted on: 5/28 10:14
1937 120 1092 - Original survivor for driving and continued preservation.
http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/mod ... p?topic_id=16514&forum=10

1937 115 1082 - Total basket case, partial restoration, sold Hershey 2015
https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/mod ... &order=ASC&status=&mode=0
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Re: KPack's 1954 Panama
#8
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Ken_P
I know you don’t want to do it , but I would pull the drivers side down and replace the wheel bearings. Keep the old ones in case the problem resumes.

I’m guessing you either have an unusual failure mode, or something is out of tolerance because of how you had to fix the warped drum. Good luck!

Posted on: 5/28 8:14
1937 120 1092 - Original survivor for driving and continued preservation.
http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/mod ... p?topic_id=16514&forum=10

1937 115 1082 - Total basket case, partial restoration, sold Hershey 2015
https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/mod ... &order=ASC&status=&mode=0
 Top 


Re: KPack
#9
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Ken_P
If the U-joint is bone dry and the needle bearings have rusted away, that could make a squeal too. I've seen that before, in a failed modern u-joint.

It might be worth disassembling that u-joint, and inspecting it. U-joints are pretty cheap, typically.

Posted on: 5/25 13:34
1937 120 1092 - Original survivor for driving and continued preservation.
http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/mod ... p?topic_id=16514&forum=10

1937 115 1082 - Total basket case, partial restoration, sold Hershey 2015
https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/mod ... &order=ASC&status=&mode=0
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Re: KPack
#10
Home away from home
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Ken_P
All good suggestions.

I would:

1. Check differential fluid.
2. Remove both wheels and see if the noise goes away. If it does, but one back on at a time. Try swapping the wheels.
3. If you still haven't found it, use a stethoscope, or even a long-handled screw driver, to try and narrow down on the noise.

Posted on: 5/25 10:20
1937 120 1092 - Original survivor for driving and continued preservation.
http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/mod ... p?topic_id=16514&forum=10

1937 115 1082 - Total basket case, partial restoration, sold Hershey 2015
https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/mod ... &order=ASC&status=&mode=0
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