Now is the time to replace the steering crank bearings if they are worn? You are more than 1/2 way there to replace them.

Well...I usually get asked "Who made Packard"

Not sure if you are still interested in pictures of the front header bow as I see in post #1070 you have it attached. I have my original header bow and if you need more pictures just let me know. A question I have is I see in the "Production Packard" manual by Dar Kuehl he mentions in section 8.4 that the bow was originally painted dawn gray. My bow is definetly the original bow and was never painted, not that it's a big deal but I'm trying to keep mine as original as posible.

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In addition to the above I would put a piece of steel wool in the tailpipe. This will prevent the rodents from building a nest in the muffler. I had mice build a nest in the muffler and it took me a while to figure out why the car wouldn't start in the spring.

I'm in the process of rebuilding my support arms and have recently purchased the support arm pin and bushing kit #304600k group 15.5051 from Max Merritt. I've just noticed in my master parts manual that this originally had roller bearings forward and aft, group #15.5055 part # 326765. I would rather use bearings verses a bushing, but I don't seem to see this bearing available anywhere and would need four. Any opinions on this before I install the bushings and are these bearings available anywhere? (1937 "120" lower suport arm pin)

Ok, I tried separating but it wasn't cooperating, I'll give it a little more muscle power. I have a machinist friend and thinking I may have a key slot cut. I think Packard should have had a recall on this...ha ha!

How do you access the nut under the horn button cup for tightening once its installed in the wheel and column shaft? Does the bakelite horn button have to be dissassembled from the cup to access the nut for tightening? Possible to get a nut that size, tighten it down then remove and install the nut/horn button assembly? Taking the bakelite button off looks like it could be easily damaged so I would like to try not to disassemble?

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Thanks for all the replies, I also was thinking that a key slot machined on both pieces would be the way to go. Anyhow, I'm thinking using the Loctite 660 and torque down. I agree, I can't see me ever needing to take it off. I also have a 37 "120" parts car that has a nice standard steering wheel, I think I read once in the forums that the banjo wheel has a different steering column than the standard wheel but I'll investigate that. I could install the standard wheel off of my parts car.

Thanks for the replies, I agree, I think you would have to destroy the wheel if you ever had to take it off again if the loctite is used. The splines are straight, like Don mentions I think it is an aluminum alloy, doesn't seem to be magnetic.The wheel splines appear to be worn, the steering column splines are fine. I don't see any indications of wear on the retaining nut assembly. On the banjo wheels the nut is part of the horn button assembly and looks like it is difficult to tighten?

I have a restored 37 "120" banjo steering wheel that was original to my car and have a question about the splines that would engage on the steering column. They seem to be worn on the banjo wheel and was wondering if a loctite product should be used when installing? I'm just wondering when driving the car if I turn left or right it could get ugly if the car continues straight if these splines were to strip. Has anyone encountered this? See photos.

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