The 120s originally had a heavy fabric material covering the fuel line between the pump and the carburetor. The rubber fuel line is probably about as effective, but it can absorb a lot of heat. Wrapping it in a reflective material might be helpful. The aftermarket plastic wire loom cover material might be a better choice. It's available in several IDs and is split lengthwise to allow installation. Using a size larger than the fuel line, like 3/4", might allow some air circulation inside it, and wrapping it in a reflective material would add additional protection. The exhaust manifold can radiate a lot of heat for at least several minutes after the engine is shut off, and that heat adds to the already high heat under the hood. Pontiac 8s around 1940-1953 were configured very much like the Packard 120, and Pontiac used a sheet metal heat shield under the carburetor base to deflect manifold heat away from the carburetor. This was in addition to the thick fiber insulator between the intake and the carburetor base. I don't know if Packard ever used such a thing, but one could be fabricated from sheet steel or aluminum. As I recall, the shields were about 4" X 7" and shaped to clear throttle linkage, etc and deflect radiant manifold heat away from the carburetor.

A Wagonaire would have saved a lot of work on the tailgate area but good ones are too expensive to cut up for a novelty and would have not given me the lines that I wanted. The base for this build was very reasonably priced--a California desert car with an interior like toasted bread crumbs but a body that needed zero rust repair. I was able to use the grill and bumpers without replating.

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Inboard screw affects only 3-4-5-6. Outboard only 1-2-7-8

Okay, like most of you, I’m convinced that the issue is fuel getting too hot in the fuel line between the fuel pump and carburetor after the car is shutoff. This is causing a rise in pressure, which then pushes fuel into the carburetor.

I rerouted my fuel line today and I don’t think I can route in further away form the manifold at this point. Unfortunately, this didn’t seem to help.

I’m open to more ideas. Has anyone used something like this to provide additional insulation?

https://www.cabletiesandmore.com/thermashield-t6-wrap?pid=4797&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw26KxBhBDEiwAu6KXt-6-b96cJAPL4Q54RXDtsd3gjR3jKezK6buXfnZI65SIQ2VviHABCBoCEgkQAvD_BwE

Here are a couple of pictures of the new routing.

One day in the ‘80s I was driving along in my 1941 Henney-Packard when coming the other way was a ‘48 Henney-Packard Landaulet. The way the other driver reacted, which was not at all, you would have thought it an everyday occurrence!

By the way, you’re looking for grille bars, not grill bars.

If the battery is in the trunk, be sure it has at least 00 ga cables. Anything smaller will likely starve it of the needed amps at the starter.

The kits I buy have the rods attached to the diaphragms so no re-peening necessary.

To illustrates BK's directive, the shot below shows the starter solenoid on mine. The front post pointing toward the lens of the camera is the power in from the battery. The small wire is on the top, this comes from the starter button and powers the solenoid to slide and complete the circuit to the rear post on the solenoid that the thick flat brass bar is bolted to, it in turn sends the current to the coil on the starter causing the motor to turn over.

You can run a low gauge wire from the battery post to the top post, this mimics what your starter button does. If that does nothing it may be the solenoid is bad, the test for that is to use a jumper cable and connect the battery post to the copper bar. If that does nothing, it could also be that somehow working on the floor knocked the battery terminals loose so they are worth a check. (A poor connection will run lights but not the amp power required for a starter).It could be your starter or the bendix might be stuck. Try spinning the motor over by the harmonic balancer, this may allow the starter motor to disengage and work, sometimes a rap with a hammer wakes the starter up.
(Note this shot was taken before everything was completely hooked up, the ignition wire was not attached yet so it is drooping down and touching the front of the starter, ignore it!)
Good luck!
Bob J.

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primarily serve? Or are the two idle adjustment screws only for the barrel above each in the carb?

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That's more or less what I've always done and, of course, it is necessary to use a new gasket.