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Board index » All Posts (fishnjim)




Re: Car Titles, engine numbers and vin #'s
#11
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Fish'n Jim
Every state does it different as there was no unified VIN system prior to 1964. eg: GA never issued titles only registration. I applied for a new title for the "P" in my state which came from GA and the policeman that did the inspection used whatever he wanted.
Once it got to the state it got delayed because they could find no record for such a vehicle number. But ultimately I prevailed.
eg2:We found OH back in the 30s used the date the car was titled as the model year. As model years often were released on the fiscal year, you might have a title for the "wrong" year car and be legit if it originate there.
eg3: my Cad pre-64 also, has the same engine number as VIN number and is a series 62 coupe but no such designation on the state paperwork, so they call it a "coupe deVille" which came in '64, even those it's not. Someone could take advantage be unscrupulous and palm it off for more $ as the title says it is. If one didn't know that or what to look for and the engine was changed, it still has a valid VIN plate in the door. But they code those early VINs with model letters. Cad used series designation for trim levels for a couple decades. "P" used "series" but completely different meaning. Cad changed models every year and no carry overs unlike "P".
So one has to be careful and know what the state and manufacturer rules/designations are not just go by your state and assume it's right.
Once they went to 17 digits, not usually a problem.

Posted on: 5/27 12:55
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Re: Shudder
#12
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Fish'n Jim
No way to know what condition your car is in, but typically clutch chatter comes form some sort of contamination of the clutch face or warping of the flywheel surface. A rear main seal leak is a typical culprit. Sometimes bearing wear is involved. You might be able to adjust it out or you might be in for more than just a clutch change. If it's not harmful, as in stalling or slipping at speed, then maybe best to leave alone depending how much you drive it and plan it for later. Probably need to put it in the air and inspect.

Posted on: 5/25 18:43
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Re: Any floor-shifters after 1939?
#13
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Fish'n Jim
This was a marketing and culture issue mostly. The "modern era" was upon them...
The floor shifter was looked upon as passe, something for trucks, and not friendly for women drivers, etc. Plus couldn't sit close in front. This thinking led into the automatics eventually. just as the "floor hump" went away with front wheel drive.

Posted on: 5/25 18:33
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Re: Questions: Heater Control Valve, Blower Motor, 1953 Cavalier (also progress update)
#14
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Fish'n Jim
If the thermostat bulb element is "toast", there's no replacements. You have to find a "good" one and have it changed. I had to do this for the Cad.
For the most part they aren't made to take apart, but people have learned to.
The guy that repairs them is Tucker's,
www.heatercontrolvalve.com
and as far as I know he's the last. He and a son do this and Jim's up there in age - older than I. He uses the telephone. I sent two in to get one back.
Usually, if the seal is gone, they leak and don't shut off. There are some universal electric ones out there that can be used, but getting to fit is trial and error and 6V complicates life. Manual valve on a cable is another option. Some just by-pass. Everyone goes through this as a period owner/restorer if they want heat.

Posted on: 5/25 7:35
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Re: Metering rod for Carter WDO 531 S
#15
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Fish'n Jim
I read this the other day and it struck me as odd, "leaning mixture increased CO" so I checked my thoughts.
CO comes from "rich" not "lean" mixtures?
CO comes from excess fuel that's not completely combusted due to lack of oxygen. About 14% excess air is required for good combustion.
So I don't know what going on here, but apparently, off the generally accepted track. So not likely to be resolved following this thinking and has transpired over a long period already.
Another brand I follow was looking for the metering rod calibration tool for these carbs, so might not be properly installed? I posted my motors manual section on this for the other guy so I include it here.

info on exhaust gas:
https://www.crypton.co.za/Tto%20know/E ... /exhaust%20emissions.html

Attach file:


pdf 37carb.pdf Size: 1,080.18 KB; Hits: 9
pdf 38carb.pdf Size: 933.43 KB; Hits: 10

Posted on: 5/23 8:18
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Re: Cleaning Whitewall Tires
#16
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Fish'n Jim
I'd not be using bleche-white anymore. They were bought out by Black Magic and have a new formula. (This ? was on my other brand sites too.) First thing they did was raise the price, to pay for the buyout, and eliminate refills size bottles.
I've used Wesley's stuff for 50+ years and run out of the old stuff, bought a new bottle, and it turned my new black wall michelins brown. Had a tough time cleaning off the scum. I wrote them, no response. No issue with the old formula.

I've bought sodium metasilicate sol'n which is the main cleaner, and make my own, now. Works fine. Some huckster came by a few years ago and sold me some pre-diluted, worked just as good as the bleche-white.
There's some migration that occurs with the tire compounds when the brown color encroaches on the white wall at the boundary. Not sure it can be reversed.
I wouldn't buy those brand tires again or form that supplier. Someone doesn't know how to make WWs. I'm hearing more and more of this, so someone's substituting cheaper tires to the classic market.

Posted on: 5/20 9:28
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Re: Fuel Pressure
#17
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Fish'n Jim
Almost any of the parts or racing supply places have fuel pressure gauges available in various ranges and types. I keep one and a vacuum gauge piped in on the Cad. Takes bit of tubing plumbing but easy. These cars were often under or inadequately instrumented for diagnosis which is required more regularly as they age. The test kit type will come with fittings & hose usually. <<$50. You'll have to look up what the pressure should be in the manual 4 your model. I'm not a prewar-ee. I can probably look it up if I have the pump number.

Posted on: 5/20 9:14
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Re: Leaf Spring Bushing Replacement
#18
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Fish'n Jim
If the car is off the ground (frame supported) and rear axle is hanging down, yes. Otherwise, there's load on the springs.
Usually, they'll make noise/squeak if the leafs are rusty. You can take to a spring shop and let them evaluate them to see if they still met spec. Otherwise, mileage or visible sagging, leaning, etc are about all you can inspect. Spring shop will re-arch, releaf, etc., if needed.

Posted on: 5/13 19:35
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Re: Garage Lift Recommendations
#19
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Fish'n Jim
Unless, you're 4'3" tall or working on MG midgets, I'd forget it, if one doesn't have the ceiling height. It'll be half way. Need at least 12', 14-15' high point is better. No magic solution out there. Rent a garage with one in it, if you need one for some work.
You can put them outdoors, if you have the climate.
I've been through this and it's just not economical, and if you can't get it high enough to use the stand up "tools" like trans jack, oil drain, etc. it's not much different than the ol' jack stands and crawling on the floor. So why spend money on what you already can do? How much under car work is there to do? Exhaust pipes, drive shaft, springs, replace lines, trans drop, etc. Most of these can be accommodated from the floor or sent out.
I built a garage specifically so I could put a lift in. I was working globally and fish'n tournaments and never put it in, then sold that place when I retired to warmer clime. This garage is bigger, but still only 10+' first floor and the way the trusses and roof are, it's a pot of money to raise a section, plus you lose access on the first floor for posts etc.. I've even looked at building a separate high bay garage, but just not doing that much work any more to justify. I'll farm out the work if I have to. I'll make sure the next place has the right stuff.

Posted on: 5/13 19:29
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Re: ‘49 22nd bumper jack
#20
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Fish'n Jim
This is one of those, the PO probably didn't know either, that's why you have 3 jacks in there.
I'd inspect the bumpers and see if any lift sections fit them correctly, hole or no hole, and sell the rest on ebay.

This is pretty common on old cars, over time the jacks disappear and every collector wants the correct jack for their vehicle. Getting the right one is not well documented, except of course, if you're "OD" and have a library of P jack pix for just such occasions.
The issue with most of these early jacks was they did not have a fail safe, and could at a moment notice completely collapse/go down under weight. So you never get under the car when using one of these. Strictly for road side emergency use to change a flat, and make sure it's in working order and on flat ground before you attempt to use one. Some were better than others in sturdiness. I'd threw away the flimsy ones. {In GM's you could interchange the bumper hookup piece and pedestal.} And only lift as high as necessary to get the tire off/on. Get an AAA card instead. A can of fix a flat is another consolation. They used to get wobbly as you went up. I don't think the Govt would approve these today and certainly not OSHA. It's probably a carry over consolation to the solid tire era, when pneumatic tires appeared and roadside flats happened. Now you're lucky if you get something that resembles a spare or something you dunk in your coffee and some combo tool that removes lugs and jacks.

Posted on: 5/10 12:53
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