Answered my own question....

I got to thinking after I posted, and it turns out there are 2 holes drilled in the pedal side were the clevis pin is inserted. Turns out the cotter pin goes through one side of the pedal cast portion, the clevis pin, then out the other side of the clevis cast portion...I'll post a pic in a minute

Hey Guys,

Working on a 1941 180 super 8 here..

Quick Question. I got my clutch linkage back in, and went searching in my parts for the clevis pin to hook up the pedal to the relay rod, and I have one that is the right diameter, but can't find one long enough. No - big deal, right? I grab one from the hardware store of the same diam of my 'test clevis' (3/8's seemed about right), but it's too big. So I get around to measuring and kinda think the 'correct' diameter is actually 11/32.

Can anyone confirm this clevis pin is supposed to be 11/32" diam (see picture)?

Where can I source an 11/32 diam clevis pin? It seems like a really odd size (McMaster and grainger don't seem to have any?

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Thanks Steve!

I must say out of all the car forums I've been party to - this is by far the best and most useful

cli55er,

Nothing really special about the fitech - I'm simply going to run a 2-to-4 adaptor upside down. Well, that was the original plan at least, but I'm having interference issues with the exhaust manifold now. I think I might end up having a 4-to-2 plenum fabbed up by a welder friend that would be slightly offset to the passenger side and space the 4 barrel mounting plate up above the exhaust manifold - I'll post up some pictures when I get closer.


Anyway - back to the front runner setup, I did end up eliminating the second idler which caused me to lose some belt wrap on the crank and wp pulley, but the geometry works out so the tensioner actually does something now, and the belt wrap seems to be on par with most of the modern day oem setups I have looked at, so it should work just fine. It ran smooth and quite while I broke in the engine with the carb.

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Howard,

Thanks again - I try to refrain from posting simple questions on here like this, but it's so tempting to hit the "easy button" when I get such timely and informative answers here.

Hey Guys,

Engine is back in the car and now I am having a bit of trouble figuring out the steering column to transmission shift linkage.

I found the parts book which provides a pretty good image of the clutch linkage, but I haven't really found one for the "three on the tree" linkage

Would anyone be able to provide pictures and/or a diagram of the shift linkage? I've had limited success on google.

Thanks in advance!

I actually have a tube of Permatex High-Temperature Thread Sealant, but for some reason I *thought* it could only be used on tapered thread. I use it all the time for nptf fittings, and it works awesome. I'll go ahead and use that.


Thanks for the responses guys!

Whoopsie - just checked again and they appear to be all to the water jacket.

I'm assuming a high temp silicone is the answer - please confirm

I am putting the intake and exhaust manifolds on and realized a number of the holes or open to intake and/or exhaust. What do you guys use to seal the engine side threads?

It's a 1941 super 8.


Thanks in advance!

OK, got my newly found front-most engine mount installed and started modifying my brackets. Looks like I'll be able to save the lower idler, but I'll have to add a gusset or two cause I ate away ~1/3 to 1/2 of the plate it was welded to to clear the newly discovered front mount.

P.S. sorry for the sideways photo.

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