Thanks Howard. I will check the trunk floor.
With the brakes done, I checked the brake lights and they didn't work. I jumpered the brake wires and the left comes on but not the right side. We checked the wiring, changed the light bulb and that didn't fix it. We wiggled the light socket and the light works as long as you hold it.
Any suggestions?
I did go to NAPA to buy a 2 prong brake light switch.

Just got new rear brake shoes from Kanter. I put them on and put the right front new shoes on. I adjusted the brake shoes and the brake pedal is where it should be. I ran out of time so I'll have to put on the left front new brake shoes next week. The brake shoes I pulled off were in good shape, they weren't adjusted at all! I shouldn't have to replace the brake shoes for years, but I'll have a good spare set!
Now the spare tire well is rusted, what caused the leak? The rear window or the rubber around the trunk?
Where do I get a spare tire well to fix or replace the rusted one. Or can a good body shop fix it?

Found the problem with the gear shift sticking. I sprayed all joint connections with lubricant and it no longer sticks!
I got to do a maiden drive! It was only down the block and around the cul-de-sac. But I enjoyed it!
The brakes stop the car but they are near the floor. I bled the brakes with no change. I asked around and they said the brakes need adjusting.
I still don't know why the battery is draining, someone said it could be the clock, so remove the fuse and try that.
It's getting closer to driving.

Got the carburetor back, the bolt that goes to the fuel screen had teflon tape on it and a piece came off and got stuck in the float so the gas could not shut off!
Ran engine for 10 minutes and it got hot, so I shut it off. Let it cool down and reran it for 10 minutes, it ran fine.
Came back a week later and the battery is dead! I put my back up battery in and the engine started fine. I don't know what drained the battery, but we tried to turn on the headlights and I had them on once but I don't know how. When I push the headlight button, nothing happens now.
I also think I can not go from R-1 gear to the 2-3 gear with the shifter.
Then I notice a clicking noise on the right rear brake when the brakes are applied. I just rebled the brakes and there was some air in the system.
So I have a few projects to do before I can drive this car.
Thank you for your help.

I put 2 gallons of gas in the empty gas tank and started the engine again.
It ran great until the carburetor started spewing gas! So I shut it off.
The carburetor is in a shop getting checked out. I had it rebuilt 3 years ago and I'm finally using it.
When I get the carburetor back, I'll reinstall it and run it. I have heard let it run at 2000 rpm for 2 hours to break in the cam and motor.
Thank for all your help getting this running. I'm excited!

I checked the compression with a manual gage, meaning I has to hold the gage and crank the engine over. All cylinders showed the same, about 60 lbs. I'm sure it is more but that's all I could hold!
I hooked up the distributor vacuum line. That is the only vacuum line on this carburetor. I moved the sparkplugs 1 spot. I retimed the distributor.
I shot starter fluid in it and cranked it over.
The engine started! I was surprised!

Thanks for the help.
Here's what I did:
The battery cables were new and ordered from Kanter so they are the right size.
I bought a new battery.
I scuffed up the engine for a better ground.
I had the smoking starter repaired.

I'm looking for a fuel tank for a 48, where do I look?

I currently have 2 running Packards here in Phoenix, Arizona, a 1955 Clipper Custom and a 1940 160 Sedan. I have mechanical fuel pumps on both cars. Near the gas tank, I have electrical fuel pumps. In the winter I drive without the electrical fuel pump on. In the summer, I only turn on the electric fuel pump when the car is bucking, like it's out of gas. I do drive in temperatures of over 100F. I know, no AC, and my wife won't be in the car. On the freeway is where I have most of the problem, until I turn on the electric fuel pump. This is my end all cure for vapor locking. I have over 70,000 miles on this set up so I know it works.
Good luck finding yours.

I have owned this 1948 Super 8 Limo for 3 years. The family I bought it from had removed the engine, had it rebuilt and he died before installing the engine. The engine rusted. I bought it, had the engine rebuilt. I installed the engine in January 2020. I am now trying to start the engine and that's where I need help.
I own 2 other running Packards, a 1955 Clipper Custom and a 1940 160 Touring Sedan. So I know a little about these cars.
I have a rebuilt carburetor, distributor, generator, water pump, oil pump and starter.
The engine turns over very slow. I have checked the spark and I do have spark. I sprayed starting fluid as I don't have gas in the tank yet. I put the engine at top dead center and where the distributor rotor pointed to I put the #1 spark plug wire there and CCW with the rest of the wires in the correct firing order.
Why is the engine turning so slow? I have new battery cables.
The wires to the carburetor for the start switch measure a short before I attach the switch, I leave them disconnected so I am using a remote switch that was bought at Sears many years ago.
Would the slowly turning engine hamper it starting?
What else do I need to do to get this running?

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