Hi John,
The door hinge cover screws are on their way. All the best with the sump. Phil

Hi John, Its Phil from Burnie way. I would try to lever the sump. If all the obvious bolts are removed it is most likely as you suggested - stuck tight. If you can get a screwdriver in then use a second and and follow along one behind the other. Have a box or a crate set up below the sump to catch it when it lets go, or keep a nut or 2 just on the studs to allow it to drop to the nut.
I love reading your blog and I wish I had done the same when my Packard was being restored.

Hi John, Its Phil from Burnie way. I would try to lever the sump. If all the obvious bolts are removed it is most likely as you suggested - stuck tight. If you can get a screwdriver in then use a second and and follow along one behind the other. Have a box or a crate set up below the sump to catch it when it lets go, or keep a nut or 2 just on the studs to allow it to drop to the nut.
I love reading your blog and I wish I had done the same when my Packard was being restored.

I recently had a wheel tyre shoulder split from the rim on my 3rd Series.
It had apparently cracked in the past and a weld had been run part way around the internal circumference of the rim. I have had the rim blasted and a strengthing band welded around the inside.
I understand this is a failing with older wheels.
Apart from replacing the rim with another and welding it to the centre, has anyone had similar problems and any alternative solutions?

Thanks David, I will follow up on Penrite. Thanks to the other members who also replied. Happy Packarding.
Ask the men who own one (or two or three or four...)

I am trying to find an equivalent type of oil for the gearbox in my 1926 3rd series six.

I have 90 grade at present but the gear cluster takes too long to slow down when the clutch is depressed causing much too much grating etc. The owners book says Whitmans 600. Is there an equivanent to this?

Hi Mal,

It's the same book that I purchased. I had a look at the other items the seller had for sale. Huge collection of books and other car parts and advertising materials.

Phil

Hi Owen,
I have not done any more work on the alignment. The car is running reasonably well since the draglink spring was replaced although I did notice a bit of over steer so I will check the alignment against the figures you supplied. Thanks so much for them. I will keep you informed how the alignment progresses.

Hi David,
I checked the drag link spring. Looks like it was an emergency one from long ago. Too soft! I replaced it with a piece of the plated spring and the movement was gone. Out on the road for a test drive and there was no shudder or shimmy. Took all of 10 minutes to fix. Thanks to everyone who contributed to solving the problem. It was a real relief to drive the car with some renewed confidence.

Attach file:

---

  (69.48 KB)

David,
Thanks for the info, the link transmitted ok and I was able to print it off. First job tonight is to check the spring!!
The wedge under my axle is inserted from the front which should incline the king pin top forward. According to the sketch it should be inserted at the back of the axle to incline the king pin backwards 1 degree. Is that the way your wedge is fitted?