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Board index » All Posts (greenfield)




Re: Who's had luck putting an air cleaner/filter on their pre-1931 Packard?
#11
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Greenfield
I've got a Detroit Lubricator on my 31 and have the same problem. Mine has a flame arrestor which attaches on the front end of the carb. I was planning on finding some heat resistant, loose fitting material (think a loose weave wool felt), sew some opposing velcro straps to it and wrap the who thing around the inlet. Periodically spraying it with silicone spray would probably help trapping the smaller particles. Not very pretty, but functional and easily removable when I pop the hood. A nylon sock over the front end of the carb would probably work in a pinch too.

Posted on: 10/23 5:09
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Re: Lubricants - 8th Series
#12
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Greenfield
Owen - Thanks very much

Posted on: 10/22 5:22
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Re: Lubricants - 8th Series
#13
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Greenfield
Would Valvoline 85-140 be okay for this application? I've seen information that it's a GL5 gear oil but doesn't contain the sulfur additives and thus yellow-metal safe. Any opinions out there?

Posted on: 10/18 6:08
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8th series steering box oil level
#14
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Greenfield
Intuition tells me to fill the steering box so that the worm gear is covered, but I'd thought I'd check to see if there was any risk of overfilling. Thanks!

Posted on: 10/17 5:29
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Re: Shutter-Opening Thermostat
#15
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Greenfield
On a related note, I pulled my shutterstat off yesterday cause I had a slight drip. The radiator flange is less than perfect -- what would the preferred gasket sealant be for this application? RTV Silicone?

I think in addition to the applying the sealant to the flange, I'm going to have to apply it to the inside of the cover too given the design of the works.

Posted on: 10/17 5:24
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Re: Shutter-Opening Thermostat
#16
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Greenfield
Have you confirmed that the shutterstat is indeed non-functional? Heat up a pot with about one inch of water on the stove to about 150 degrees with the stat in it and check for movement of the bellows. After warming up, let it air cool back to room temperature (don't shock it) Also, you should have a low tension return spring on the top end of the shutter assembly to help the shutters close. I'd have to believe that the spring takes a lot of stress off the stat during the cool down.

PS - If you have a problem that money can fix, then it really isn't a problem.

Posted on: 10/17 5:06
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Re: Runningboard mats
#17
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Greenfield
I found a very acceptable substitute for my car at a fraction of your price. Your price for 27-30 Packard is $750. American Floor Mat is about $90. For the same thing.

https://www.americanfloormats.com/corrugated-rubber-runner-mats/

Posted on: 10/3 5:51
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Re: Okay, so how do you remove the dome light cover????
#18
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Greenfield
Yep, I've noticed the same about the vagueness of the Packard repair manual.

Be sure that your dome light circuit has a good ground. The switch could be getting power but if the flow of electricity can't return to the battery, then it won't work.

Posted on: 10/2 5:48
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Re: 1931 Shock Links
#19
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Greenfield
PS - the job that Apple did looks good. I've used them in the past and have a very good impression of the quality of their work. The only other shop I found that advised they were up to rebuild my shocks (Delco Lovejoy Duodraulic) was A1 Shock Absorber Company who wanted a little more than what Apple was charging. Being on the east coast, I just decided I'd stick with Apple.

Posted on: 9/27 16:08
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Re: 1931 Shock Links
#20
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Greenfield
It was an emotionally jarring experience stroking the check to Apple to cover the cost of 4 rebuilt shocks at $445 per shock. BUT, a necessary one as in the three years of Packard ownership I've only seen a pair of front shocks for a 30/31 come up for sale once on Ebay. I didn't want to merely clean up what I had, see them leak everywhere and possibly damage them to the point of rendering them useless.

Assuming your shocks are like mine, to get the link off, you'll have to remove a cotter pin off each end of the link. Then you'll have to unscrew a plug on each end to release the tension on each adjoining ball joint. I removed the ball joints on the shock side by using a Harbor Freight ball joint separator. Be sure to place a towel over the works as I launched one of my balls about 30 feet when it separated. I soaked my links in Purple Power for a day, then disassembled, removed the decades-old grease, cleaned, painted everything etc. The original seals where the balls connect to the link look they were some sore of rubberized felt, about 3/16" thick. For $.99, I found a sheet of foam about the size of a piece of paper and about 5mm thick from Michaels Arts and Crafts, that seems like a perfect substitute. Its rigid but flexible, and compressible to seal everything good. I tested the foam to make sure it is grease resistant and it seems like it'll work.

Posted on: 9/27 16:04
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