Finally got this done. Westach 6Vpos CHT gauge. Looks like its in sync with the middle of the M in the Pack gauge at around 160 to 180 degrees using a J type 14mm thermocouple on the head. Seems to do the job I wanted. With the temp at around 67 degrees today on the shore, everything ran well with the 180 degree thermostat, 13 psi radiator cap and 2.25 core aluminum radiator ( Packard museum blueprint spec).

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Really? This sounds fugazy to me....

"That said, the cooling system is designed for air to pass in through the radiator so bringing it in separately won’t help and defeats the purpose of the cooling system." - from The Don

The warping and cracking of 359 Packard Korean War aluminum heads had nothing to do with heat and only caused by corrosion?

Not sure I follow.

Cold air induction through the old fresh inlet can add (or maintain) power by feeding the engine colder lower pressure outside air rather than the engine ingesting the preheated under-hood air. The difference can be fairly significant no?

The end of my carb air plenum is right at the where I took the fresh air inlet tube off.

Cold lower pressure air induction can allow for richer carburetion tuning with an increase in power. It can also reduce the tendency for pre-detonation no?

My 64 427 Ford seems to like the air coming in. I thought maybe my Packard would as well. Thoughts are welcome.

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Last question, how did this get at Camp X in Cuba?

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The point of adding a cylinder head temperature gauge is to monitor the surviving ultra rare hard to find 359 aluminum cylinder head. Which is different than monitoring water temp? Modifying the fresh air inlets is to allow more air into the engine bay. Pressumably to make things cooler? What am I missing here Mr. Goat? Any who, Westach has a 6 volt+ CHT gauge with a 14 mm J type thermocouple that goes around a spark plugs. We will go with that. Thank you for all those who showed interest and helped.

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Thanks again Howard. I've have pinged both vendors. Radio silence so far. The Faria does appear backwards. To keep things cooler I disconnected the fresh air tubes so the air flows into the engine bay and put 5" filters on the ingoing cabin tubes. Aside from basically the gauge not working with the 6 volt, by connecting the power wire to the yellow IGN wire and pressumably it's a 12v neg gauge, do I risk any damage to the rest of the electrical system?

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Thank you for responding BigKev and Howard. My original water temp gauge and sender work fine and will remain the same. The Faria temp sender just mounts flat on top of the head. Ideally , because the of the aluminum head, I wanted to monitor it's temp. The Faria gauge is fairly inexpensive but only goes to 120 F degrees so I'm probably spinning wheels. Classic Instruments does sell a vintage cylinder head temp gauge with a microprocessor and is very expensive. Neither actually say they are 12 volt. But the lights are LED. I was not going to connect the lights. The Classic looks like the 14mm thermocouple sender goes around one of the spark plugs?

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Aloha,

I would like to add a cylinder head temp gauge. From the pictures below can anyone tell me which is the hot ignition terminal wire I can connect to? Will a 12 volt neg ground Faria gauge run on my 6 volt+ ground or am I wasting my time? Any help is greatly appreciated.

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Thanks Don. My gauge has come back to life. I did add a small bottle of Star Tron enzyme. Thanks again for everyones help. Happy Easter!

TC

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Thank you David and everyone. I'm pretty much talked off the ledge. There will be no cutting. The gauge appears to have floated back. I surmise since the car was stored for the winter with a very low tank of gas, which I have never done before, the mechanical device was stuck when I recently filled the tank?
My sending unit is still suspect though. Maybe its too gummed up? Aside from clogging my fuel filter, does anyone think an enzyme added like Star Brite Star Tron fuel tank cleaner would do the trick?

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Yikes, I had assumed the reason to cut the door was to not have to drop the tank. I didn't read correctly- drop tank, then cut hole in case of an issue next time. I do understand the issue of sparks, gas and going boom. Cutting the unit wire and tank is an issue as well. I was going to use a cold cutting panel saw. Maybe I should rethink this. Sheet metal slid over the top is a good idea. Stay tuned but I think eveyone is correct, the tank probably should be dropped.

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