One of two radio bonding clips to help eliminate static. Introduced in 55 they were also used in 56.

Here are the dipstick lengths Packard published postwar and while I cannot say for sure, expect the prewar 6 would be the same length as taxi and export 6. I don't know if there were any changes in the pan capacity for the 6 as there were for some postwar 8 engines. You might check the motor number to see if there are any suffix letters after the motor number or any symbols such as an asterisk, star, or pound sign on either end of the number. Any of the suffix letters or symbols would signify something was different from the original specs in the engine or drivetrain. If you find any extra indicators, someone might be able to decipher what the change might have been.

If you mean the starter and solenoid are completely electrically dead, presuming you still have the stock gas pedal start the most likely issue has to do with how the start switch was installed back on the carb. With an Ultramatic, there is also a neutral safety switch on the transmission but that is not likely to have been moved so something could have been disconnected. If you converted to some type of button and no longer have the carb style start switch then you will need to trace wiring. Strange as it seems, a loose or dirty battery terminal connection can corrode or oxidize overnight to the point it will exhibit symptoms much as you describe when trying to supply the large starter current needed.

If you still have the carb start switch, here is a drawing showing the proper parts sequence installation along with a writeup Ross provided of how everything works and is adjusted. Note that item 2 must be installed with the longer lip down below the ball as shown If it was installed upside down, the ball could be out of position so cannot engage the starter plunger or a switch part could have been damaged.






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Most of the digital tachs easily found are 12v and if you are still running 6v no idea how well the digital types would work. Westach still has some 6v analog types that are even somewhat period correct looking so that might also be an option -- but they are more expensive than a typical modern digital setup.

As I understand it, when ordering from Westach you do need to confirm the number of cylinders and maybe something else as one poster did buy a unit which was not set up correctly when it was received. He did report that they immediately took care of the issue and he was happy with the service and operation. His posts are somewhere on the forum but as far as I know he is still satisfied with the unit.

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I was trying to avoid that comparison and be somewhat diplomatic.

Guscha posted a frontal shot early on and then replaced it with the side shot. The frontal view immediately made me think something similar to truck because the grille seemed so out of proportion to the rest of the car. Since you brought it up ----

I agree that with the bent rod it certainly isn't the candidate for turning so begs the question why the brief adjustment procedure mentioned in Motors Manual makes no mention of anything needing to be removed or disconnected so it could be the item turning and why they made the procedure sound so easily done.

Aftermarket manuals like Motors, Clinton, Haynes, Dykes, etc in almost all instances usually just copies and expands or clarifies what the mfg suggests. Would be very interested in knowing if Packard explained the procedure in an earlier manual with as much - or even any - detail as they did for the 120 and later Safe-T-Flex suspension models.

Maybe another case of what seems to be a Packard philosophy of "We have done it this way for years so no need to go over it again" or "The older mechanics already know how to do it and the newer ones can ask the older ones for help".

That is an interesting shape for the rod and someone else will have to say if it is bent or should be shaped that way.

The only written bits I could find on senior adjustment in any of the books says nothing about removing or disconnecting the end sleeve but this illustration of the knuckle side from the 33-36 senior eight parts manual sure doesn't look like anything but the rod is meant to turn. If that is the case I don't see how it could adjust without being straight or else disconnecting something. Is the part circled in red attached to a stabilizer bar. I couldn't see enough in your photo to know what it is doing.




Since both the illustrations shown for all 33-36 senior eight cars in the parts manual are essentially the same except for numbers maybe someone will have a 33 or 34 SM that will have something more on the procedure.

It is certainly ambitious and with the Russian plus a Dubai dealership maybe more than a few will be sold. Is it another hand build custom made car as the last of the Zil's were or did they partner with another major auto mfg to share stampings etc?

I think I mentioned seeing a TV program a few years ago where a few of the old Zil craftsmen were going to try and cobble together enough finished pieces to make 2 or 3 more cars using up the last of the major Zil parts still on hand. I think it was a last gasp effort to try and keep the car alive because the Zil factory was going to be torn down or repurposed. The craftsmanship where they started with bare rough sheets, slabs, and bars of metal and by hand hammer forming and welding on pieces wound up with finely finished detail pieces was amazing. Kind of makes you wonder if we still have craftsmen left here who can or would still do that.

I don't recognize that car but with the lettering with the photo of the plane in the background, is it of hand built Russian manufacture and the latest version or successor to the Zil?

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I believe there is a missing letter k in that email address. Unless something changed since some years ago correspondence, think it is flackmaster.