Thanks Chris, I’m working on a 6. Timed it last week. It was retarded several degrees need to test drive it this weekend. Pump seems to be moving water, it gets water/heat to the heater core well, but I have a new pump on the shelf and that will be an upcoming inspection project. Also have a new 6 blade fan that has some more “scoop” to it to force some more air at low speeds. Piece at a time.

If you get a breakthrough let me know and I will do the same. Messing with my engine heating up a bit too much right now so focused on that. All the usual things to check over to narrow it down. 100+ F outside so some things out of my control.

Chris, I am playing around with the same thing. I installed a different gauge that now has some bounce in it. I did notice that the gauge seemed to move a lot faster when I tipped it back and forth than the older one did. This was when the gauges were uninstalled. I am told that the gauges are designed to counter the sender bounce. I plan on looking at the original gauge that seems to glide between stops slower versus bouncing to see if I can figure out why. It may be a little while, but I will report back if I learn anything of interest.

Thank you

I am not thinking of converting my car to 12v. It works perfectly with 6v. My question is more a curiosity. I see references in the parts lists that show 12v parts. What were they used for? Were certain models or applications equipped with 12v? See example from 1935-41 parts list.

Attach file:

---

  C7241FC1-67AB-4572-BE95-24B3253C3265.jpeg (340.43 KB)

You maybe way past this project already. My 110 has a banjo wheel with a horn ring. Problem I encountered was the gasket that insulated the ring from the grounded hub was basically crumbling. Caused horn to go off in the middle of night and fun stuff like that. Anyway I replaced that gasket with two plumbing gaskets from Home Depot. One is foam like material the other is thinner harder rubber. The combo was perfect for compression feel to engage horn from the ring. My cap was starting to get a crack so I put a thick layer of epoxy on the underside to get some more years out of it.

Foam went on first then rubber. It all comes apart with three screws from the bottom of steering wheel.

Attach file:

---

  F021E537-0F57-478D-B5FE-521E94E47575.jpeg (220.78 KB)


  47A59902-4209-4DF5-8105-FFB78B822B7A.jpeg (396.54 KB)


  91590160-815B-4C59-96F9-69E1324792BD.jpeg (254.75 KB)

Hi Steve, Dell posted some pictures and I think we have it figured out. His was from a 120. Looks the same as mine, but it would be interesting to have a couple pictures of your 110 to see if they are identical

Thank you,

Thank you Dell,
It definitely looks like I am missing some parts if they are the same. I'm going to be where the car is on Weds. I’ll stare and compare again with your pictures. Thanks again

Thanks Dell enjoy your vacation. I would appreciate the pictures when you get back. I'm rewiring everything right now so my timing on this is a little longer term.

I need to know where the back of the helper spring connects on my 110 convertible top. One side is currently loose and not connected and the other is hooked in a spot that I suspect may be wrong because it rattles against the convertible top frame and makes a terrible strumming noise while you travel down the road with the top up. Attached is a photo of where it is currently hooked. Passenger side

Attach file:

---

  D7C694B5-4F68-4B3D-98FC-61909D3F294B.jpeg (169.31 KB)