That is what keeping these cars going is all about! Fantastic! There is no better result than that, well done!
The steps are perfect. I will have to lift my Mom in mine when the weather is warmer, of all the cars I have done it is this one that has really captured her fancy. It'll be top down to set her in so she will have to hold on to her wig!
Wonderful post, I am so glad you shared it with us.
Bob J.

PM sent as to my (not original) method
Bob J.

Thanks Ben!
I should have included a shot for reference.
As you can see the tops are identical.
On the underside you can see the valve on the left is the one that is too high of a pressure, while the one on the right is from Kanter with the low pressure release.
Still having fun!!
Bob J.

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I have Greta back up and running after her long winter’s nap. Was not running well at first, even quicker choking out than last year but I found the problem, it is old news to most, but something not all would be aware of:
She would run well on high idle, but once she warmed up and the RPMs dropped she had to be carefully babysat with a rough idle. She stalled out a few times and I had to carry a Gatorade bottle of gas to re-prime the carb before she would start. The carb would be bone dry. So I ordered an electric fuel pump thinking that the worn lobe on the camshaft was just not getting enough fuel in at an idle.
I took her out Saturday morning to open up the garage to swap out the snows for summer tires on the Caddy and she was still rough on a warm day. After moving her back into the garage and barely getting her in before stalling I thought I would just leave her til the new pump came in.
I went in to make lunch and had an idea, is there low pressure in the gas tank? I went out and took off the gas cap and sure enough, a big hiss occurred as air rushed in to fill the semi-vacuum!
It was the cap!!!
I had two caps, I had ordered one from Kanter, but while awaiting its delivery I got another one from my jobber here in town and installed it on the car.
The one from the Kanter sat in the parts box downstairs as a spare.
With this new idea I pulled the Kanter cap out of storage and checked it, it has a much lighter release valve in it than the one on the car! I suspect that that one is for a newer engine with higher compression and more powerful fuel pump to allow air in with a pollution control system, whereas the one in my storage from Kanter was low pressure release for the older style, lower compression engine with a lower fuel pressure pump.
Add to that that the gas tank was full now as compared to a quarter tank last year meaning the tank had little air space left in it so the vacuum was stronger and quicker to affect the fuel flow restriction. I also noticed the stalling was more prevalent when coming to a stop after driving fast on a main drag, with the higher engine revs/pump pressure the new style cap would allow the flow but as soon as it dropped to idle approaching the stop the valve would close and increase the very vacuum that caused the stalling, as the new cap’s valve would stay closed at an idle and not allow the air in to displace the fuel used.
So with the proper cap it now runs smooth as glass, I actually have had to turn down the idle! Also runs cooler too.
So if you experience similar problems remember all gas caps are not the same.
Have fun cruising in the warm weather!
Bob J.

You got to be happy with that! She is looking great! Well done sir!
Bob J.

If you do not want to do it yourself, body shops are well equipped to polish up polycarbonate now. All new cars have polycarbonate headlight lenses and they regularly bring them back from dull yellow to clear bright with a series of polishes. They would make quick work of the lens on your quadrant.
Have fun,
Bob J.

Good idea Kev, I would add an accurate straight edge and a .001" feeler gauge to carefully check progress. (I turned my assembly face side down on a marble countertop I have for a workbench to verify its flatness with the feeler gauge.)
Bob J.

Agreed. I have a braided ground cable from the transmission top cap bolt to the frame, (grounding the motor as the motor mounts are rubber and insulate it electrically), then the frame to the battery, like the wiring schematic, and I get full circuit function. The wire mentioned from the generator to the regulator is a back-up one to assure good generator function and is 10AWG.
In the below photos, the ground is the one attached with a small screw to the body of the generator slightly in the background, (I also used it to tap into an accessory ground as it was in a handy spot), in the one of the regulator it can be seen coming out of the harness and going to the screw that mounts the regulator to the firewall.
Slightly different components to yours as remember, mine are from a '53 model, but the circuit is the same.
Bob J.

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I went out and looked at mine and I cannot even see the glass protrude down in the channel even hitting it with a very bright light, I even tried to see if I could get a refraction shining the light into the side of the glass at the front to see if I could pick up the forward lip that way, so I have no way to measure it. I think 5/16" would be tons, I have a feeling mine is even less than that, it sure does not hit the back of the channel, the stainless trim rides right against it on both doors. But as we all know, my car is by no way original as I had to have all glass made. Maybe someone else has one apart they can throw a mic on to get an accurate measurement.
Bob J.

Mine had some flakes of nickel left here and there, but mostly rust. I could see no way to take mine apart either, so I simply painted mine. Many primer coats and wet sanding to get'er smooth and then a few top coats to get'er shiny. Not chrome like the factory but looks very nice. But as you know, my car is not a stickler to originality.
Bob J.

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