I had the exact same problem with the distributor in my 56’ Patrician. The holes would not line up, just off a hair and too close to the shaft. I called Petronix customer support and while talking with the technician, I texted two photos. He was very helpful, sent a replacement and it works great. I highly recommend calling Petronix.

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Well, you have certainly helped me. I have never even heard of "friends and family" and would have been fooled as well. I know I am showing my naiveness, but what is friends and family and why does a impostor use it? I am also very leery of cash apps and digital currency transfers. Sorry to hear that you were lied to, wish I could help.

Not sure if you can tell in the photo, but I connected on the port for the power brakes. Didn't see a better source.

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Update and questions:
I have rewired one side of the car under the hood. It definitely requires patience and time.
Verified good oil pressure and coolant flow. Trying to get the car to run better. Properly set the timing, but the carburetor has presented issues. I am not proficient in tuning four barrels, did alright on the 1 barrel my 68 F100 had but four barrels to me are a little intimidating. Researching how they work only made it worse. I purchased a vacuum gauge and connected it to the primary vacuum port for the power brakes. Everything I have read states that the port must be unmetered like for the vacuum advance. When I start the car, it is at 20, but once the choke is fully open, it falls to around 15. Using a flat head screwdriver, I turn one then the other fuel mixtures screw at a ¼ of a turn and would wait a bit to see how the vacuum pressure would change. No change. It did not matter if I turned the screws out or in. At one point I had both mixture screws all the way in. (I was careful not to screw in too firm as to distort the tips) Never did the pressure change. Frustrated, I went to turn the car off, and it knock a few times before becoming quiet. So, this morning I called Ross, describing my problem. He believes I have a clogged port or ports in the carburetor causing it to run lean and all the symptoms point to this conclusion. My hope was that he could clean and rebuild the carb, but this is something he rather not do, and suggested that I reach out to the forum for suggestions on who can and tips in attempting this myself.
Does anyone have a recommendation for a person to rebuild the carb?
What is the best solution for soaking and cleaning a carb if I choose to rebuild? One recommendation is acetone.
Who makes the best kit for a carb rebuild?

This is way down the road, but is there a source for the fabric in my Packard?

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Please excuse my ignorance. You mention overdrive, I have not yet had the pleasure of driving my 56 Patrician, but hopefully soon. I am assuming the H button on the push button selector is overdrive. If this is correct, do you push it at a stop position or while driving? And your dash pad looks great. Mine not so much. Is it original or a replacement?

A few questions:
a. Installed the master cylinder and when I can find a helper, attempting to bleed the brakes. Did discover the process is much easier with the car level and not with the front tires on ramps. Saw on the internet some suggest jacking up the rear of the car, when doing the back brakes. Any suggestions?

b. discovered a plate in the driver's floorboard. can't really tell its purpose. Does anyone know why it is there?

c. Set the timing and now need to set the idle. Not a 100% confident in my skillset with adjusting the 4Gc carburetor. Looked in the book, I am at about 60% thinking I can figure this out. Any tips?

d. been spending a lot of time under the car lately and noticed my power steering rack seems to be leaking. Do they make a repair kit?

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Today I opened the front door to check on the weather. It is way more accurate than the local meteorologists. To discover a box. It was from Speedwell Garage and contained my treadle-vac master cylinder that I sent Ross. He did a great job, and it is a shame that once installed, it will be hard to see. Now I just need the rain to go away.

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I would love to buy your Patrician but must refrain due to the distance. Opposite coast. I had the same issue with not being able to shift into park, neutral, and reverse. The issue was bad wiring to the transmission pressure switch. I have plans on rewiring the whole car, but for now, I spliced the orange wires together at the firewall to bypass the switch. Now I can shift the left buttons. I am curious about your radio in the glove box and was hoping for a picture.

Managed to free up some time last weekend to remove the master cylinder and box it up to send to Ross. Spoke with him on the phone a couple of weeks ago, great guy. donated some to Kevin and will again in the future, but I really wanted to say thanks to everyone in the group. There is no way I would have gotten this far without your help. Can't wait to drive her. Next is rewiring under the hood and the instruments.

Update:
A: ordered another radiator and moved the mounting brackets into the opening, thus tucking the radiator in, away from the fan, by ½”. I did have to trim the side brackets on the replacement radiator by 3/16” on each side. This permits the radiator to be somewhat isolated from excessive vibration. I used a hole saw (3/4”) to cut rubber washers out of a piece of radiator hose, to further reduce the vibration transfer.
B: I was able to deduce that the orange wire coming from the pressure switch on the transmission had no voltage, thus park, neutral, and reverse would not function. I created a temporary jumper, and was able to move her back to the driveway. I do want the pressure switch operational, so I will need to determine if it is a wire issue, or the switch, or both. On a side note, that V8 will hop over a brick like it was not even there.
C: I removed every piece of masking tape, electrical tape, paper tape, and tape I could no longer identify from the harness entering the firewall. I am deeply dismayed by what I discovered and have come to terms that I will have to re-wire that entire harness under the hood. I have ordered 12 colors of automotive grade wire #16 – 100’. What are the other typical gauges of wire used throughout the harness. He has spliced one feed (12 volt) from the starter to 4 loads (sorry I am an electrician). I feel this is very wrong and will be spending this week enlarging a wiring schematic on poster board. Its easy for me to follow and see, when I am under the hood.
D: because I have no brakes other than the emergency brake, I thought it would be a great time to open the master cylinder reservoir and peek. It was not easy to get the cap off, and I could not see directly into the cylinder so I stuck a finger in to determine if any fluid was in there. What I felt, rather surprised me. It felt like dried cottage cheese. So, I took a picture. I will have to pull the master cylinder. Yeah...
Any tips on:
A pulling a master cylinder
B re-wiring a harness and the best connectors and type for the job

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