Dirt/rust is likely source of your problem. Install a 10 micron filter on discharge of fuel pump. (Jegs)

Howard thanks for the response.

After 4 years of restoration work, attempts to start the engine were not successful. The car was last started 4 years ago after installing - new plugs, wires, points, condenser, rotor, distributor cap - all new except the coil. But now it will not start.
The ammeter pointer oscillates from zero to approx. 3 amps discharge with ignition switch on and while starter motor is cranking the engine. No spark from removed plug -- this tells me that I may have a faulty ignition secondary circuit - bad coil. My question - will a six volt coil from NAPA be a suitable replacement?

The door striker plate is composed of two pieces of metal with rubber in between. The rubber is vulcanized to the metal surfaces with the addition of sulfur and temperature to harden the rubber and to strengthen the bond to the metal surfaces. For a hefty price Steele will re-vulcanize your striker plate but you must have both metal pieces. I only had one complete metal striker plate on my car and two metal pieces with no rubber - I used urethane rubber to bond to the metal, for the other missing striker plates I was able to find solid SS Ford plates for the rear doors that have worked well - so far.

The roof rail channels on my '37 Sedan Convertible are 1 ". I ordered 16 feet of roof rail weatherstrip #70-0251-65 from Steele and the base measures 7/8" not 15/16". The weatherstrip is too small would need to be cemented in place. I was able to find 1" base material from a Ford Restoration company (C&G) that will slide into the channel. I also replaced all my channels with 316 SS.

In addition to removing the four nuts from the heater studs in the engine bay you will also have to remove the radio and speaker, if you have one. There are also a dozen or so fasteners that attach the dash pad to the fire wall (remove from engine bay by compressing and pushing inward). If needed you can purchase new dash pad fasteners from Restoration Specialties. I purchased my firewall sound deadener insulation pad from Collectorsautosupply,Inc. excellent product and excellent fit. I suggest that you also install additional sound deadening self adhesive pads on firewall, floorboard and inside doors. I purchased mine from Eastwood. You mentioned that you may want to install a new wiring harness - I would recommend Paul Little at Harness Unlimited - excellent product.

Thanks for the response. Interesting that Packard relied on windlace to keep both wind and water from intruding the cabin. I have the channels and rubber weatherstrip seals for the top to door glass and windshield to quarter window seal and thought that there were seals around the doors since Kanter shows two options in their catalog for '37 door weatherstrip. I can see how the door bumpers would be problematic.

I have a '37 120 sedan convertible but do not know where the weather stripping goes around the doors - none was on the car when I purchased it. I would appreciate a photo of how to install around the doors and also a profile picture of what the weather stripping looks like.

Thanks
Dwight

My experience with TCP global is that they primarily sell acrylic enamel.

While the formulas are readily available the tints are not - I recently painted my '37 Packard Blue and PPG had to substitute two of the tints that are no longer available.

Thanks for the response. Don I assumed the welds were added to assist with re-chroming and must now be removed to allow it to be snapped in place - carefully ground out and area painted to prevent rust. Bob thanks for the advice on install - snap in place and to use dish soap. I only hope the re-chrome did not add too much thickness or make the center piece too brittle.