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moodydavid16

Re: Engine rebuild, help!

#11

Quite a regular

Quote:

Owen_Dyneto wrote:
Properly used, a micrometer will not scratch or damage the crankshaft journals, that's exactly the type of work it was designed for. For the ID you can either use an inside micrometer, or a bore gauge and transfer it's dimension to an outside micrometer. Inside micrometer is easier and more direct.

Alright thank you for the help
Quote:

Have you confirmed that the crankshaft is not bent?

I just sent the crank and block to a machine shop to check for straightness

Posted on: 12/8 20:52

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moodydavid16

Re: Notifications

#12

Quite a regular

Quote:

BigKev wrote:
I've identified one issue that causes part of the delay that sometimes happens when adding a new post or replying to a post. It has to do with the website having to send out 100s of notifications by either email or private message to those that have subscribed to notifications on specific threads or forums.

Looking at the database, there are 1000s of users subscribed, but some of those users are inactive (IE haven't logged in over a year) or are users that have gone to great garage in the sky.

So just to weed out all that extraneous activity that is happening, I have reset everyone's notifications to disabled. If you want to continue to receive notifications, just edit your user profile and then set the "Notification Method" back to email or private message. Sorry for the inconvenience, but this was the only way to bulk-weed those old accounts out.

Thanks for keeping everything up to date!

Posted on: 12/8 13:49

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moodydavid16

Re: Engine rebuild, help!

#13

Quite a regular

Quote:

For a good precise measurement I'd recommend a micrometer rather than a caliper.

I have a micrometer but I am worried about using it on the crankshaft because I don't want to scratch the journals at all. and I also don't have any micrometer that can measure the id of the bearings. what is the tool called that should be used to measure the bearings? I would imagine you would torque down the caps with bearings inside but no crank. Is this the right way to do it?

Posted on: 12/8 13:45

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moodydavid16

Re: Engine rebuild, help!

#14

Quite a regular

I think this is good news. As I understand it, a bent crank should only lock up when you crank down on more than one bearing cap, everything else being alright. That says that you have bearing shells that are not compatible with how the crank is ground for those two bearings. Either the crank is not what you think it is, or the bearing shells, or both, which may be an easy fix. I had a vendor send me the wrong bearings before, they were easy to identify because it was obvious, but probably simpler to do when the issue is simply the difference between 0.001, 0.010, 0.020, etc.[/quote]
Well this seems like the most likely situation and also the easiest to fix. I am currently away from the engine right now but when I get back home I am definitely going to get a some calipers out and measure

Posted on: 12/7 21:03

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moodydavid16

Re: Engine rebuild, help!

#15

Quite a regular

Quote:

Fish'n Jim wrote:
Have to check that all the machining was done right. ie, if they missed one or didn't cut it the right size, misaligned, etc. then the oversize bearings will "over"-tighten. The blocks are best align honed, so since that wasn't done it complicates trueness.

Hopefully tomorrow I am going to be sending the crank and block back to the machine shop so they can re check everything and this time have the block to test fit.
Quote:

There's a magic clearance on the bearings to get correct oil flow. So if too tight going back, you'll ruin it.

is this "magic clearance" just anywhere within the vertical oil clearance spec or are you referring to a specific sweet spot within that range?
Quote:

Lots of lost art in those passe rope seals too. Common early issue across the brands.

yeah I really like how these older cars are so unique compared to the newer ones; they sure don't make em like they used to!

Posted on: 12/7 20:56

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moodydavid16

Re: Engine rebuild, help!

#16

Quite a regular

Quote:

JeromeSolberg wrote:
Have you checked the bearing shells? Could one or more sets of undersize (or more undersize than you wanted) bearing shells been installed, e.g. a vendor mistake? .

I wouldn't think so because the bearings all came in the same box as a set but I will still definitely check it out
Quote:

You said you checked the clearances. If the crank is bent you say it only happens to the last 2 mains near the transmission. If you crank down on only the last bearing cap and the first bearing cap, the binding from a bent crank, if any, should be less. Similarly if you only crank down on the first and the second-to-last. Might be a way to understand what is happening. I still don't understand about the clunk

So, after I did this I found that no matter how many other caps are on as long as either that #4 or 5 cap is on the crank is completely locked up. even if it is only that one cap on.

Posted on: 12/7 20:33

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moodydavid16

Re: Wanted to Buy 1955-56 Caribbean

#17

Quite a regular

I know its not a Caribbean but I just was on another forum and someone is selling their 1956 400, have you checked that one out?

Posted on: 12/6 23:30

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moodydavid16

Re: Engine rebuild, help!

#18

Quite a regular

Quote:

HH56 wrote:
Is there any kind of debris under a bearing shell that would act as a shim?

Update: there is nothing under/on the the bearings except for assembly lube they a\have been carefully cleaned on all sides and reinstalled even more carefully than before and the crank still binds.

Posted on: 12/6 19:39

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moodydavid16

Re: Engine rebuild, help!

#19

Quite a regular

"Those cranks can bend if stored laying on the ground rather than standing on end, or by beating on those motors. They also can crack."
For the few months I had the engine apart it was always stored upright it was only maybe half a week after I got it back from the machine shop that it was kept on its side. Also it was only at the machine shop for about 2 weeks and I cant say if they stored it upright or on its side. Do you think that's long enough for it to bend?

Posted on: 12/6 12:47

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moodydavid16

Re: Engine rebuild, help!

#20

Quite a regular

Update: the rope seal is not the problem.
also, can anybody tell me what a good way to tell if a crankshaft is bent is? Or is that something only a machine shop would be able to determine

Posted on: 12/5 19:13

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