Well, after more than $400 spent over 3 locksmiths all to not fix the problem. The best locksmith, who went all out and charged the least, (he wasn’t going to charge because it wasn’t fixed but I forcibly gave him $50 for over an hour of work and an hour or so of his research online). The diagnosis is the locking mechanism got bent and the push button could slide across the lock to push the manual locking lever up.

I found a workaround for the lock by removing the decorative push and using 2 nuts and a washer on the threaded levers. The washer barely fits and there is enough wiggle room that I can lock it to the lip if I push the lever over a few mm.

It’s not wonky it’s “hot rod style,” 😄and I feel better now that my door locks.

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So the rear locks on both rear doors simply push through whether the interior manual lock “button” is up or down.

It’s just really strange and no one I’ve shown it to in person quite understands why.

Let me see if my mechanic can take a few photos since the door panels are already off to fix the windows.

These back doors still won't lock. I have taken my car to an electrical mechanic after taking it to my normal mechanic, and it looks like this car was parted, and one of the owners along the way pulled not only electric door actuators out but all the wiring. The quote for rewiring was, "It's just too much money".

Since my front doors lock using the key in the exterior door lock. Would it be possible to lock the back doors by replacing the exterior back door handles with the key lock front door handles?

Thanks all. I’ll double check my ventilation and put a fan in if needed.

I’m thinking when I get around to replacing the carpet and headliner I’m going to heat/sound shielding the whole interior. The car is super loud and hot when driving.

Quote:

I do not. I didn’t even think about that.

Thanks for the diagram and input. I’ll be working. On that next week before I go to NY for work.

Attached is my new glovebox with head unit.

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Here is the thing that needs to be adjusted weekly to idle right

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Update on the progress of the car. I had some steps forward and some set backs.

The good:
-Fixed glove compartment
-Fixed front door locks fixed.
-Replaced the speakers
-Put in a head unit in the glove box.
-Installed a backup cam under the license plate.

The New problems:
-both passenger side windows won’t roll up. (I have already replaced both motors and regulators on the drivers side. Which are doing fine now)
-the fuel pump lever or throttle lever (not sure term it’s the thing that revs the engine and gives the car gas) loosens as I drive. Meaning the car idles slower every day after tuning. After a week I have to go back in and tighten it again. I’ll be replacing that asap because by day 4 I’m manually giving the car a little gas at stops with my foot on the brake because it stalls at idle.
-one of the hubcaps came off (Big ups to PSW for the replacement)

Howard - you’re an absolute legend!! Thank you!

Maybe a dumb question: what lamps/lightbulbs fit in here?

Also can anyone take a photo of their glovebox opened. I have the glove box lock connected to the glovebox door but it won’t stay up. I believe I’m missing the striker (the top part that the lock connects too). None of the lock shops in town seem to have anything. I’d assume a hardware shop might have something that would work. If anyone could send me a photo to match that would be awesome! Thank you.

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