If you really want to restore the original mirror finish, maybe one of those DIY spray-on "chrome" applications might work? That is not really chrome, and would not stand-up to the elements, etc. But I suspect that it might last for a while, inside an enclosed light assembly.

Also, if you are really into chemistry, I believe that there are other options available for actual plating, which could be polished to look chrome-like. For example, I purchased some tire spokes which were zinc-plated, and looked like chrome (even mirror-like finish). I am not sure how difficult (and safe) if would be to do something like that in your garage, though. But further research into the subject matter could be useful.

I also like the chrome trim "bows" very much. This, indeed, seems to be the hardtops-only thing.
Although, how often will you notice these things while using the car, anyway?

Oh, that's in Germany...
Do you have an illustration of the other side of the pump, that would be pressing against the seal? Depending upon the way it is made, maybe an o-ring might work as well.

Is the new seal a large o-ring, while an old one is a flat washer type?
I would definitely inquire with the kit supplier about that. This does not seem right.

You might be able to cut the proper seal from the universal gasket material of applicable thickness.

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I think so. Only, I would probably use cloth covers instead of plastic. Cloth will feel better, when in use, and it is also breathable, which, I assume, is a good thing.

For the paint, I would just clean, polish it, and have it waxed all the time. I prefer to use that wet wax, or what ever it is called, so that you do not have to rub it. I am sure that the car will look well cared for, and at the same time authentic and antique.

You might also want to put some covers onto the stepping boards and maybe even consider getting a custom top, so that you can keep the original in a safe place, to use for car shows etc. Moreover, if you do not already have one, I would get a car cover to keep the sun\rain away when not garaged.

Also, please share more pictures!

This is interesting. According to multiple sources, for every 10 degrees of increased temperature, the pressure is expected to only increase ~ 1-2 pounds.
To move 10 pounds up, your temperature will need to climb ~100 degrees. And this is twice the typical expected temperature increase at normal highway driving.

Maybe the numbers are different for motorcycle tires, not sure.

It seems that this article is a bit over-generalized. Especially about the front tires doing most of the work. This is probably not the same, when we compare a Honda Civic and a Porsche 911

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From the point of view of a lay person with lots of money - not sure. From a point of view of a collector - absolutely!

Original things are always more rare and, thus, more desirable regardless of the restoration quality.
Think about it this way: we have two identical cars leave the factory. One car sat in the garage for most of the last 50 years and preserved well, aside from some expected aging. The other one has seen some normal use, got some rust patches, was repainted 2 times, maybe an engine rebuilt, etc. Which one do you think is more valuable right now?

Now, the owner of the first car did not do anything to it, while the owner of the second car had it restored for a lot of money. Which car, do you think is more valuable, now? (Not selling for a higher price, but is more valuable?)

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That is exactly correct. Also, the temperature does not rise the pressure inside the tire, as much as one would expect.

The most common standard (for radials on passenger cars?) seems to be 30-35psi.

I would also recommend using the pressure specified on the tires themselves.