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Re: Fender Fun
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Home away from home
 
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Just about done my wheelhouse patches!
It took a lot of time to trim and fit so I could butt weld them. Reaching around springs and trying to see what I was doing made this an awkward project. Next weekend I'll grind down my fugly welds and fix any bad spots. 
Posted on: 3/17 10:11
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Re: 1949 coupe interior - windscreen centre pillar trim
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Home away from home
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I would guess you're looking for something similar to this. (This is from the 3 piece rear window of my 53 Cavalier.) One of the parts dealers should be able to pop one in the mail for you.
 
Posted on: 3/14 13:19
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Re: Overheating-1941 120
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Quote:
Lots of good suggestions have already been shared, but I'll add my two cents. It would be good to have more details about how hot it's actually getting. For example, from cold, start your car and record times and temps at several points such as, top and bottom of rad and front and back of engine. When did this start? What lead up to this becoming an issue? Did it slowly get worse, or appear suddenly? Do you think it's better since getting the radiator repaired? It may be hard to know without having measured temps before and after in a similar manner. After reading your feedback, it sounds like a circulation issue to me. Considering what you have already done, it would seem that either the pump or distribution tube would be the culprit. And given that your rad had low flow issues, maybe the distribution tube is suffering the same. What did the rad shop find was plugging the rad? If the distribution tube is plugged maybe the flush you did wasn't able to clean it out? Did you find that the flush cleaned anything out? Rust? Calcium build up? Other? If you have a flow issue caused by a plugged distribution tube I would expect the rear of your engine to get hotter quicker than the front. Once the thermostat is open and you can see coolant is flowing through the rad you should be able to increase rpm a bit and note some increased flow if the pump is pumping and things are reasonably clear. If you're concerned it might be a bad head gasket you should be able to tell by pulling your spark plugs and inspecting them. One of them will be different, steam cleaned so to speak. There could also be signs of coolant in your oil and oil in your coolant. Post some more info when you can.
Posted on: 3/14 10:28
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Re: Fender Fun
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Quote:
Thank you, I'm pleased with the results. Karl from Make it Kustom is my inspiration for trying flow forming. He has a great channel!
Posted on: 3/11 23:51
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Re: Fender Fun
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Forming some of the fender/trunk pan supports.
I wasn't happy with the first filler neck guard (left) so I made some changes and made another.      This was a fun little project, and something new. I'm ALWAYS learning something new in order to take care of my Cavalier.
Posted on: 3/11 23:22
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Re: Repro Hydraulic Lifters vs Old Lifters
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Quote:
If you are taking lifters apart, be sure you don't change parts from one to another as they are matched. I misread and thought the new ones were smaller. As Howard mentioned do a test fit of the lifters. As long as nothing is tight I don't think there is any reason for concern. The picture of the J-4540 Gauge that I posted on your other thread appears to be 1.478", which is longer than what you mentioned. Not sure what that's about.
Posted on: 3/11 0:36
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Re: Repro Hydraulic Lifters vs Old Lifters
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Mr. Novice here again.
Seems to me that a small variance in the length of the hydraulic lifters doesn't matter as they are going to fit into space created by grinding valve stems to the correct length using the J-4540 Gauge. The lifters not needing to be exactly the right length, like mechanical ones, is one of the benefits of hydraulic lifters. I don't believe the difference in diameter is significant or concerning. And it doesn't surprise me that originals would be a tighter/better fit. I tested and used my original lifters, but I never measured them so can't provide any data regarding their dimensions.
Posted on: 3/10 23:41
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Re: Exhaust Valve Guide Install
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Home away from home
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Don is referring to this little guy.
Posted on: 3/9 20:17
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Re: Exhaust Valve Guide Install
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I think if they install similarly to the intakes then there is no reason for concern.
Time to get those guides installed, everything else is relatively easy, just time consuming as you want to be careful everything is done just right before you close your engine up. It'll be running before you know it!
Posted on: 3/9 11:49
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Re: Exhaust Valve Guide Install
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Easier than the intakes? Maybe sand them, but just not quite as much???
I would guess that the rate of expansion, as the engine warms up, is fairly consistent between the block and the guides. That is, if they are tight when the engine is cold, the are not going to become as "loose" as the engine warms up. Seems to me that there shouldn't ever be a time that the guides will be looser than when you install them, when the guides are frozen and there is a difference in temp/size between the block and guides.
Posted on: 3/9 11:12
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