If you can give the pin a solid rap from below to move it a 1/4 inch,it will move out easily as the top of the pin has about a 1/4 inch of serrations on it to make it hold fast.

These cover the opening behind the seat,so you never see in behind the seat back,if you move the seat back and forth.
They were upholstered in imitation leather the same color as the seat color. They had a leather or imitation leather also at the seat top between it and the back shelf to prevent things from rolling down behind the seat, no matter what the seat adjustment was(all way front or back). The front seat was exactly the same as the 4 door sedan seat,except for the robe rail at the back that you can't see because side covers you asked about.

The spacer has to be threaded which is what holds your steering wheel on tight. The nut is threaded to the adapter, only to hold the horn pocket plate, down on the steering wheel.

Are you speaking of the standard steering wheel or the accessory wire spoke or banjo steering wheel? The standard wheel has only a nut bolting it to the horn pocket and steering wheel. The banjo steering wheel uses an adapter nut or spacer nut sleeve,then the final nut holding the horn button pocket or cup.

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Here is one more to show where the wiring harness goes.

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Maybe these can help you out. These are from inside and outside. If you need help with Identifying the scene let me know.

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You will have to chisel off the rivet heads off to get them apart. That's the easy part. There are a few options you can use (so called Chicago screws)(A sort of screw together rivet)or make each rivet on a lathe, then fight to peen them without damaging the arms. The best way, but expensive way is to find a platter who can do the hole operation.(plating and riveting)

Do not use drill bushings as they are hardened for drilling in jigs, etc.(that's why they are called drill bushings)Most, if not all distributor bushings are brass or bronze.

The seat metal frame back & bottom is one part. There are 4 bolts that hold it to that floor. Two in the back & two in the front. You may have to take off the upholstered side covers to get at the bolts that hold the seat frame to the floor. If I remember correctly,their screws are under the decorative aluminum sill plates.

I have 115C convertible coupe, but that is a solid part all the way down,with no 4 holes as shown.What is your cars production number 1089-? ? It could be something on a early produced car or a very late produced car or body shop repair. My car production number is 3121. The very early cars use tear drop bolts on all the bumper guards as opposed hex bolts, there after.

Also the latch plate wasn't brass but a notched steel stamping with rubber in between. Steele rubber products redoes those
latch plates.