I have the wiring diagram.

The smaller wire, the ground I guess, was connected to the arm. This is the wire I pigged with a new end using the heat shrink terminals. This is how it was before I replaced the fan belt and I took the picture so I could re assemble the same way.

The condenser ( for radio inferences) is connected to the field terminal.

Another idea, when I moved the oil filter canister, I didn’t get the cap right the first time and it leaked oil on the generator. I cleaned as best as I could, but maybe my terminals are still oily? I had to move the oil filter out of the way to rotate the generator closer to the block.

The picture was taken before I started to replace the fan belt.

The thinner wire was connected to the arm terminal

If I add another ground from the generator to the body somewhere, will that help?

Left is field, arm is on the right side.

This picture was taken before I replaced the fan belt.

I added a new connection to the smaller wire on the arm connection because it was frayed
(Pigged a new piece in)
What is that wire for?

I realize that the ultimate solution will be to have the whole car rewired, it’s a mess down there!

Take off the fan belt
Remove wires from arm and field
Wire with alligator clip on both ends, one side to arm, other side to field.

Wire from negative battery post goes where? Touch it to the arm or field side?, to see if generator spins?

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Hybrid, can you give me a little more detail on this test. I watched several versions on You Tube but I’m still not sure how to do it.
Jumper from arm to field and then what?

This whole thing started with my wanting to replace the fan belt, so I know how to take it back off.
I have to move the oil filter out of the way (up) because the supply lines prevent the generator from rotating closer to the block. It’s a big job.

This is what I’ve tried after watching You Tube videos.

Cable directly from field on the regulator to field on the generator, no help
Cable from arm on regulator to arm on generator, no help.

Volt meter on both battery terminals, voltage didn’t increase when revved., both normal and with headlights on

Battery was fully charged using a Maintainer.

Removed the ground cable from battery terminal (positive) with the car gunning, car stalled.

Tried an extra jumper cable from positive terminal to ground on the body, no help

Polarized generator with jumper wire from arm to battery with car off. Sparked but no help.

Next step?

I disconnected the wires to the generator to install a new fan belt.

It does not appear to be charging when looking at the ammeter at a rev. Of the engine

Do I need to polarize the generator, jumper wire from arm to field on the voltage regulator?

Can I test first at the voltage regulator with a volt meter?

By the way, the fan belt listed for my car in the Parts Cross Reference on this forum was short enough so that now I have 2-3 inches to tighten the belt when necessary. The belt was Napa #24489.

I would like to replace my fan belt as the old one is as tight as I can get it. It is at the limit of the adjustment of the generator away from the engine. This site calls for Napa NBH 2524489 as a replacement.
Can I assume that a new belt from NAPA would be a little shorter because of stretching ?
OR
Do I need to find a shorter belt with the same width?

Is it a difficult job to replace, any tips.

23rd Series with 288 Deluxe Eight.

Thanks in advance.

Thanks Big Kev and Human for your replies. YOU WERE RIGHT! I had swapped the lighted switch last summer to use for the electric fuel pump until I could get a mechanical replacement. When I switched it back, I crossed the wire for #30 and #86. I should have used black and red wire instead of just black. Problem is resolved, no more clicking. Fog Lights work as they should.

Thanks, as always, for your excellent diagnoses!

Thank you all for your comments. I may have a problem with motor mounts as I found one of those rubber blocks under the car.
I’ll keep an eye on it. I really appreciate your advice.