Over heating straight 8's has got to be one of the top 10 (or higher) topics - very common and as noted has very many culprits to work through.

This was my input on another "overheating" post:

>> After replacing the water pump with a rebuilt one, having the radiator checked and cleaned, setting the timing "by the book" (6 degrees past TDC), checked for good-strong firing from the distributor, pulled and cleaned the distribution tube and cavity, removed the freeze plugs and pressure washed the inside the cooling jacket best I could, replaced the timing chain (while I was there), none of which resolved the problem completely. It still ran hot but didn't boil over. Temp gage would get up to "H" and stay there, and only slightly come down with higher RPMs.

The remedy I finally discovered was to set the timing "by ear" - which ended up (with my engine) 12 degrees. Seems strange, but it starts fine and runs and idles at normal temp. <<

Good luck - and enjoy resolving the problem. It will be very rewarding when you get it - I promise!

Detail pictures -

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With Pleasure - Thanks for asking!

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Thanks Mal and Ross!

After searching for months for the proper stencil font and size I ran across an "antique" military stencil machine on ebay. I couldn't justify buying the machine but the seller agreed to stamp out the numbers & characters (plus an extra set) for just a small $offer.

The rest was fairly easy in spacing and placement, then dabbing the paint in with a flux brush.

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Sorry for not keeping my project notes updated - but here's the latest.

The project was completed Saturday at 9:41am. Painted the last hubcap emblem and snapped it on - just in time to enter the first local car show that started at 10:00am.

There were 55 cars registered including the local Corvette club, rods and antiques. Each contestant voted for their top 3 favorites. Appears most liked my Packard - Best in Show!!

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Thanks OD.
Finally found it in the Intro / Table of Contents (page XIV). I've gone to the parts list many times and thought I'd read it from cover to cover. - It just goes to show (me) everything is always somewhere to be found, just takes a little more leg-work.

- Wonder why the "X" didn't make it to the paint charts during those years? -

In removing ALL of the black paint from my "renumbered" 1950 Eight Deluxe they were no indications of any color from the factory other than black. I've also seen a lot of black 23rd's online. On the other hand I haven't seen Code X (Black) on any of the paint charts after 1948 (not on 1949 or '50 charts!). The ink stamp on my patent plate had worn off and the build sheet was missing so I'm not 110% sure if the car was black to begin with!

>> Did the factory decide to paint the '49's and '50's Black after the paint charts were printed?
>> Any charts other than DuPont, Acme and Sherwin-Williams charts that would have it? (not even an "X" here in the Paint Cross-reff index!)

Anyone else run into this or have an idea what happened?
Hopefully someone can ease my mind...



<(I know - would of been better to check this out before this stage in the game...)>

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Thanks!
Lighting is from factory courtesy (with new light bulbs). I was surprised also how the picture turn out - just from my i-phone

Yes to all 3 questions.
The black rubber I had repo'ed and the carpet strip was attached to the rubber last (making it one piece).
If you noticed 1st and 3rd pictures from Ross on page of 1 of this post, you can see the similarity with an original mat.
Thanks!
- Sam

After much ado, here is the finished floor mat.
Thanks to all for the valuable input, guidance and suggestions! I still haven't yet seen an original floor mat in person so it could not have happened without you and this site (priceless resources!)

- Sam

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