I would think $55K would be about right for the car, providing the engine is in good shape. I bought my 726 a little over a year ago, it had cost $100k+ to restore and had about the same mileage on it's engine. I will have about $55K into my car by the time I get some engine issues sorted out.

But in the end, it's worth whatever somebody will pay for it!

Scott

Go to McMaster-Carr

http://www.mcmaster.com/

Search up "solid rivets" and "Solid Rivet tools" You need a Rivet set (or two), a vise and hammer and you don't have to heat them, they are mild steel and should expand nicely if you hole isn't too over-sized.

Scott

Logjam,

I vote fuel system... Just as HH56 said, start at the gas cap and work your way to the engine.

Gotta check the cap, pickup, fuel line, fuel filter, fuel pump and lastly, the caurb.

I had a '67 442 Olds that did the same thing. After much consternation, I figured it out it was a little tiny chunk of crap that would randomly float over one of the jets... The car would stall, suction would stop and the chunk would float off to lurk nearby for the next cycle...

No easy way to do it, a lot of attention to detail but that's one of the things I (we) like about these old cars.

Good Luck!

Scott

Night Owl

I am sure there are WAY better experts here but, if you need a fast answer I can get you in the ball park.

Down and dirty explanation is that the points close to allow the primary windings in the coil energize and develop an electric field in the secondary windings. Then they open which collapses the electric field generating the spark which is then routed to the correct plug via the rotor, distributor cap and wires.

Do this, bump your engine a little bit at a time using the starter until the rubbing block on the movable arm of the points is on top of one of the lobes of the distributor shaft. At this position, the points will be at their widest gap. Generally, they should have a gap about .015-.018" or double the thickness of a business card (if you don't have feeler gauges). That should get you in the ball park enough so that if it doesn't run, you can rule out the points. There should be a screw on the points which you loosen to open or close them by moving the base assembly. Make sure you tighten it up when you're done! After the car is running, you can put a dewll meter on it and fine tune that gap which is called the "Dwell" adjustment.


Hope this helps

Scott

Had a great time; perfect weather and plenty of great cars. I have already posted my Packard photos.

https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=2376

Went to the train museum in Strasburg too!

Scott

Note to BigKev: I loaded one photo twice, can you delete it?

Hmm,

I might have to redo my schedule so I can be there on the tenth too. It would be nice to get together with you guys... This will be my first time an the meet. Anything not to be missed?


Scott

John

I am planning to be there on the last Saturday, at least for the show.

Scott

JW,

I have had two cars shipped by Fedex auto transport, a 30' Chevy from upstate New York to San Diego and my 726 from Washington State to San Diego. The pickups and deliveries went smoothly and the cars arrived unscathed. Pricey though. I would use them again unless I could locate a trustworthy independent guy with a covered carrier that charged less.

Scott

Attach file:

---

  (147.09 KB)

Guys,

This is all very educational but what I would like to know is: can anybody recommend a mechanic/machine shop with experience in these conversions, preferably in the Southwest? Send me a PM, I'm dying to know!

Thanks in advance,

Scott

Dan,

I had the same situation with a 67 Oldsmobile with a quadrajet. There was this itty bitty chunk of junk in the carb bowl. It would run for a while then this single flake of crud would cover the hole for the idle circuit and it would just sputter out. As soon as the flow stopped, the crud floated away and the car would start right up. Drove me nuts, took forever to find it too. Good luck with your puzzle...

Scott