The 14 mm conversion is more or less non-negotiable. Considering the race happens in the middle of nowhere, I have to make the car accept commonly available replacement parts. Keeping the 327 is what makes the car unique, but it will also be the primary weakness, so I have to upgrade it to live in the modern world as much as possible. Using modern plugs also means more reliable spark.

Speaking of which, who's got suggestions on upgrading the oil pump and pickup? From what I understand the oiling system is one of the primary weaknesses of this design.

That's good to hear. It was just a bit of a shock is all.

I'm also looking at the project in entirety. I need a transmission adapter, transmission, rear end, suspension, roll cage, seats, lexan windows, tires and wheels, fire suppression system, and oh so much more.

It stacks up. I guess this is why I've accepted that this is a multi-year project.

Far as I know the engine's never been apart, and they're only doing a minor decking to square the surface.

These guys are pros, they do thousand plus horsepower drag engines every day, so I trust they know what they're doing. That's why they were selected.

Truth be told I was more concerned with the rehab on the big-end of the connecting rod. They'll nip a bit off the bearing cap and re-hone. Not anything out of the ordinary, but still a tiny bit scary.

Stopped by at Motor City Muscle today for the estimate. It's a whopper at $4400, but that includes a lot.

Here's a rundown: dip in the hot tank and bead blasting, measurement, and inspection, to start. Machining work includes decking the head and block, replacing the 10mm plugs with standard 14mm, boring the block ~.060 over (she was really worn out), grinding the crank and cam, line boring the main bearings, rehabbing the connecting rods, and re-grinding the valves seats. New pistons, valves, valve guides, gaskets, and seals plus they'll deliver it already primed.

Spendy, yes, but it's not like I was planning to eat this month anyway.

Here's a gallery of where things are now (the crank is already out for work):http://imgur.com/a/1xJUL

The interesting part is there was no lead in this repair. Bondo only.

As far as fixing it, I'm fairly comfortable doing this repair properly though. I've stitch welding patch panels in place to replace the wheel wells and other stuff on my '64 Lincoln (and made sheetmetal NACA ducts and other stuff like that). No patch panels for those cars and they all rot the same way.



Finished product at the end of this short gallery
http://imgur.com/a/Uc96s

A water-heated carb isn't really about improved performance, although it might help with atomization a tiny bit. It's about preventing carb from freezing up.

Chevy 327 is the first place to look, although I think they existed on other engines as well.

Yeah, I know it's a terrible hack job, but there are times that I'm forced to ask. Sometimes you find that dumb things were done in the past.

"We pour liquid metal to form each crankshaft bearing"

"Pour lead into the seams of sheetmetal joints then file and sand it smooth without a respirator? How else would you do it?"

"Why wouldn't you use asbestos brake pads? That stuff is great!"

There was a suspicious bubbly spot on the Packard's passenger side hind quarter when I bought it and I new full well it was bondo popping from a half-assed repair, but I decided it was time to dig in and see what was going on. I discovered a rather badly brazed-in patch panel covering as-yet unknown damage. Was this how body shops did patch panels back in the day or was this a hack job? (I'm betting hack job).


Full Gallery:http://imgur.com/a/3TKCm#0

Welp, finally screwed up the courage to go drop of the long block components at the engine builder. Chose D&S Engine Specialists in Clawson, MI. Everybody I know recommends them to me and their equipment can handle the scale. Took one last photo before entrusting it to someone I've never met. It's almost as scary as trusting a surgeon you know? You basically have to accept that the people you're putting your faith in know what they're doing.


Judging by the wild-ass crankshafts and enormous cams I spotted on the racks though, a lot of horsepower and good work does come out of the shop. To start I'm having them boil the components clean, magnaflux the block and do an estimate on the minimum machining to return to spec. I have no interest in crazy overbores but the guy who took a look expects at least a light bore (there's a noticeable ridge at the top of piston travel). At this time, I'm instructing them to check and grind the valves, but to not replace them with hardened. From every scrap of literature I've read the Packard engines don't need 'em and in any case, for the hard miles I'll just plan on using lead additive anyway. A based-on-nothing comparison on the cost of basic work before parts was $3400, but that's based on a straight six with hardened valve seats.



By the way, here's the way I constructed the base of the crate. Crank position is obvious, but the head goes chamber side down right next to it and the block got mounted right next to that.