What I've struggled with is the underside of the hood(s). Any confirmation on this? I've seen both, and while my car was original paint, it seemed black. But I've had folks claim confidently it's the color of the car.

No archive pics I've seen have helped me.

Rich

Based on the specs provided above, 10 watts is a great target.

Watts = (Volts * Volts) / Resistance

= (6*6)/4
= 36/4
= 9 watts ~ 10 watts

Rich

I'll be there. I've actually been the last two years. I just sneak around the meet and take pictures. Looking for odds and ends at the swap meet as well. I have to go into work late Saturday night unfortunately.

Rich

Armand is the expert. If he doesn't have the material, you can get it from SMS, especially if you can send them a sample.

Be prepared to patient. Armand didn't have enough of the stock material, so I went with SMS for the original pattern. I'm still waiting.

You can see my threads/comments on this subject.

Rich

Here's a link to my old thread on the subject....


https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=12284&viewmode=flat&order=ASC&type=&mode=0&start=0

I have the brown with stripes. Should be the same pattern.

I've just got my body back on my chassis after over year. I marked all the body cushions and shims. I thought the door alignmnents would be fairly easy but couldn't be more wrong. They aren't bad, just not good.

For the non-converts, do we really get a lot of movement with the body shims? My car is a 1941 110 2 door. The car seems pretty solid, and my painter appears skeptical the shims will get us there.

Thanks,
Rich

Thanks! Last night we found out hanging doors is a real pain. I'm now hunting for info on that.

I saved and marked each body spacer and shim thinking it would be an easier task. I couldn't have been more wrong.

Rich

Made some progress today. Body is back on the chassis finally!