I was hoping to be done with 359 by now but machine shop is dicking me around. He had crank for two weeks then when it came time to cut relized it would not fit in his crank grinder. I ran the crank up to Somerset KY and will pick up tomarrow. Then it is off to the balancer to have reciprocating mass zero'd in. Here are picks of the exhuast manifold that has been Jet Hot Coated. It was done in Cast Iron Gray. I just wanted to protect it. As in another forum I answered the person who was questioning about sticking heat risers and told him to ditch it all together and now I can explain why. The heat riser was meant to do one thing and we know what that was ( I would hope) Anyway, the air temp is warmer than 50 years ago and most everyone lives in a climate where 30 degrees below zero is unheard of. If it was that cold I'm sure the Toyota would be getting the call not the old Packard. The heat riser causes restriction in the exhuast system, hence the over heating problem, and robs horse power,and thins out the dense charge of atomized fuel through heat. Then to top it off the spring will break and the valve will flop around and of course, the shafts going through cast iron leak and blow carbon on motor and fuel pump heat sheilds and make your motor sound like crap with a puffing and clicking noise. I am sure some in here will say mine don't but you are wrong. I can promise you mine don't as I have driven shaft out and then installed two grade 8 3/8 bolts copper washers and nuts. I crank em real tight. weld the end of the nut, then send out for some Jet Coat. See pic's

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This is what tool looks like installed. Leave nut on just loose and tap the spreader with four pound hammer. They'll pop when freed up...

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The word is Mystical, I am here for 11 hr a day and you will see some misspelled words. The old lady will rag if I stay to late so I try and hurry. Also John we are both wrong. The series 80 engine is 344 cubic in. I screwed the mathematical formula up. Ready

pi/4 X bore Squared X stroke X #cylinders

.7853975 X 3.312 squared X 5 x 8
I don't know how to make comuter do the squared sign so I wrote it. any way bore = 3.312 stroke = 5 and it sa straighta 8a

Before things went down hill on a straight 8 subject last weekend some one out there I believe "clipper 47" or "packard53" said the STR-8 was Mystical. Well does that mean all STR-8's???? Here is another one I'm working on....but it is from brand X. This old gal was lying in a shop for 20 years and the old guy who owed it passed on and his son hired me to put it back together. The car was totally disassembled. I thought the smart thing to do was to reunite the motor and chassis and use huge chassis for engine stand and test bench. If motor was toast, that could of been detrimental to job as cost to repair was un-known. OK, so we put this 1000 lbs monster back in and bolted her down. I was looking at the up draft carb and how the chambers were broke and basically how crappy a design this really was. I called the owner and ask about "originality" and if a driver was more important with reliability. he said yes. Great I flipped the intake 180 degrees and and fabricated a spacer adapter and bolted on a brand new 350 CFM Holley. After a major tune-up of new all electrical including the factory dual points and hooking 12 volts to it the old 1932 buick engine came to life. After a warm up I rapped it up and the reponse from the new down draft carb was excellent. The motor lives. Now to slowly put back the whole thing together. The roar is cool from the 307 cid straight piped straight 8. Check out the water pump, distributor being run off the gen. The last pic is from a 31 straight 8 showing what original carb looks like. I'll paint the big mill buick green after I adjust rockers. That billet aircleaner is going green also to make it look more original...YEa right...

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Eric, here are your measurments. Some one out there has to know what the $50.00 a piece hydralic Lifters are made from. Look at them close. Straight eight was power honed today and had crank ground. I will clean block tomarrow and prep to reassemble. Well after balancing that is......

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I'll talk of my reasons for hating heat riser valves in this forum and show how I ditch them. In all cars of all different makes. Turbo dude, do you need any measurment or more info on lifters or cams?

what the hell do you need a heat riser valve for in Virginia Martha. You don't live in upstate NY in the 50's in the winter. Prop it open or better yet remove it and plug the side holes.

Cam has five. Will show during assembly

The other shop installed some new valves but to forgot to grind and seat them in. To bad I could not upload short movie clip of one valve operation start to finish. I'll send pic's of power honing later............Al

Trying to get pic's to up load........

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