Thank you but totally different. This was not inexpensive and the dealer that screwed it up won't respond me about it or anything else. I've been trying for some time for several things but no returned emails or texts and I even tried through their site just in case it was somehow different and/or an IP issue.

Update: Surprise, I got a response finally!

Thank you, Howard. I understand what readings there should be on each terminal and I thought that Acc was all the way to the left (counter-clockwise) but I wasn’t sure. You just confirmed it for me but something is wrong as I can’t assemble the switch that way. The only position where the key can be removed is in Acc and it goes together only one way so either the housing is the wrong one or . . . I can’t think of anything else. Does anyone have a spare?

Thinking that possibly the switch was reassembled incorrectly, I took it apart, not easy with the hard sealer the rebuilder used to hold it together but it appears that it can go together only one way. In the event that I had actually forgotten the switch positions which is very likely, I had a look at the owners manual but it’s a bit vague on which position is off and which is accessory. Nevertheless, when it’s in the position where the key can be removed, there is continuity which obviously isn’t right. Does anyone have a solution?

They were on the B-pillar in a 1940 110 sedan.

They look like this and were common on all cars of the era. I have a '60s replacement somewhere but don't see it in my Classified Ads at the moment so found this eBay listing instead.

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Not quite. The shoes are all the same on some cars such as my 1951 Henney-Packard on both front and rear and was that way on all my other Henney-Packards too. Maybe something to do with the weight being over 3 tons.

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That is a factory rivet and you definitely don't want to remove it! Just take out the regulator as an assembly. In your photo, you would use the hole to the right. Once the mechanism has been released from the mounting, slide over the bit with the rivet to where the slot enlarges to a round hole. That's for the removal of the lift from the glass and it may take some jockeying around and even cranking one way or the other to get it there.

I'm beginning to wonder if the switch was somehow put together incorrectly when it was repaired. In fact, this was the second from the dealer as the first rebuilt one had apparently not been tested and didn't work at all. On this one, I can't see that the key can possibly come out in any other position unless the contact plate below is wrong. The Acc position is where the tumblers line up with the grooves in the housing so that's the only position where they can move to let out the key.

I would just close it. As it's not going through the radiator anyway, I doubt it would do anything to the rear block cooling and the coolant being bypassed would be of better use in actual cooling system.

Thank you. That being the case, then they were for my 1941 Henney-Packard 1901A and don't recall ever doing any seals on it. I wonder if these were for 0ne of my 1964/1965 Imperials (I still have one) or one of my four 1965 Cadillacs (still have one of these too).