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Board index » All Posts (Speedwell)




Re: Various CL Pickings
#11
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Ross
That last 400 in your list has the rare and stunning "Orchid cloth" and patent leather interior in fine condition. If I wasn't hip deep in putting my own 56 back together I'd just buy the thing.

Posted on: 3/11 18:27
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Re: Wheel Well Paint Color 56 Caribbean
#12
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Ross
All of the front end sheet metal was dipped in black primer and baked. The front fenders were then laid on a pair of bucks and sent down a paint line completely separate from the body. Any paint on the inner fenders was black except for overspray 'cause nobody cared.

Here are some shots from a one family owned 56 400 with only 4000-odd miles that I woke up back in 2005 when the daughter of the original purchaser decided to sell. The car had NEVER been dicked with or restored although there was some minor paint touchup on the driver's side. You can see the baked on black under the wheel well with just a hint of overspray white. The particular car had never been undercoated as that was a dealer option. On the the engine side, you can see how the body color spilled down over the inner fender. There was no attempt to completely cover the engine side with color and they were pretty well completely black towards the bottom where they bolted to the frame.

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Posted on: 3/9 6:15
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Re: BigKev's 1937 115-C Convertible Coupe
#13
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Ross
Just to circle back to the brake springs for an important point: The primary shoe spring is to be weaker than the secondary so that the lead shoe comes out and contacts the drum. That energizes the secondary shoe. Under normal forward braking, the secondary shoe never leaves contact with the anchor pin. If the springs are reversed the rear shoe will come out first and then, depending on adjustment, slam back into the anchor pin giving jerky brake action. That is why some older models had an extra secondary shoe spring.

If you look closely or take a caliper and measure, the wire of the primary springs is several thousandths smaller than the secondary's.

Posted on: 3/8 18:17
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Re: KPack's 1954 Panama
#14
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Ross
Use a 3/8 drive long "wobble" extension and a 5/8 socket.

Posted on: 3/8 17:46
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Re: Water Injection Kits
#15
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Ross
Any '55 will happily run on regular gas with nary a knock.

Posted on: 2/26 12:37
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Re: Question leaf spring brackets on a 39 packard
#16
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Ross
That spring bolt has a large head on one side that fits inside the large hole. It has a moderate sized body that fits to the spring bushing. That dia. is turned further down to the thread size that fits through the small hole in the frame and is then retained by a nut.

Posted on: 2/18 10:08
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Re: CLUTCH SHAFT PILOT BEARING
#17
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Ross
At the introduction of Ultramatic all crankshafts were bored to a larger pilot bearing diameter. There is not a scintilla of difficulty changing between Ultra and manual due to that fact. All the man needs is the dimensions of the large pilot bearing that was used mid 49-54. I am 8000 miles from home so can not measure one for him.

Posted on: 2/11 11:53
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Re: 51 200 Dual Circuit Upgrade Kit?
#18
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Ross
If you replace all of your brake tubing and install new hoses and cylinders, the risk of instantaneous brake failure is small to the point of nearly vanishing. That is unless you plan to run the car in the salt.

In 52 years of screwing around with old cars the only instantaneous failures I have seen were due to corroded brake lines. Sure I have seen diminished performance for a host of reasons--all due to lack of maintenance and wishful thinking, but instantaneous failure was always from corroded lines.

I have seen poorly engineered dual cylinder retrofits where the pedal stroke was not sufficient to operate the second half of the dual cylinder if one half failed. The very picture of a fool's paradise.

Posted on: 1/14 11:13
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Re: r-9 overdrive
#19
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Ross
Almost certain that the overdrive locking sleeve is hanging up or the little tab on the reverse shift fork that is supposed to push the sleeve to the rear is worn. When it acts up, try pulling your lockout knob out all the way.

Posted on: 1/7 7:48
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Re: electrical wiring [again]
#20
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Ross
I'd suggest removing the entire dash from the car, rewiring it and then putting it back. That way you can deal with a thousand other nagging details, for example the heater bowden cables, lubing the speedo etc etc from the comfort of your workbench. That would be a great time to rebuild the heater valve too.

I also strongly recommend changing the car over to column shift and donating the pushbutton unit to the Museum of Needless Complexity, for display in their Painful Unreliabilty Gallery. Just my opinion. And experience.

Posted on: 1/7 7:33
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