I measured the clearance of the impleller to the pump body and it's at least .060. Using modeling clay, I measured the distance from the impeller to the block and it's .050.

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So there are two clearances I need to be concerned about. #1 is the impeller to the p[ump body and #2 is the impeller to the back of the water pump cavity in the block. I'm using the repo gasket from Max Merritt.

I'm actually in the beginning of process of checking measurements and I'm draining the cooling system with the goal of measuring the clearances this week.

Owen,
Did you have a chance to observe the water flow in your radiator?

I think you misunderstood me. Radiator flow has been checked out of the car. What I'm trying to determine is how much coolant flow should you see when looking directly into the top of the radiator with the engine running.

I'm not seeing much coolant flow so I don't know if that is normal because of baffling or should I see some coolant flow. With no thermostat on 32 cars (except the front shutters), the water pump should be circulating water immediately upon the engine running. I'm trying to see if the water pump is truly circulating coolant.

As I said earlier, the club members feel they have never seen what looked like no coolant flow in any cars they have seen which led them to believe that I have a bad water pump.

I'm still chasing the 903 running warm. How much water flow do you see if you look inside the top of the radiator? I don't see much water movement even with the engine reved up. Not sure how much you should see. I don't know if baffling in the upper tank would reduce any water flow you would see. I was on a club tour yesterday and the consensus was it definitely lack water flow which points to a wate4 pump issue.

For a 1932 8 deluxe, what would be the maximum overbore before you would have to worry about the motor running hot because of too much overboring? Would .06 be too much?

Potamac wiring did a fine job for me. I was told hey use the originally blueprints.

I had issue with my 32 popping out of high gear. Replacing the spring that held the ball detention with a stronger spring fixed my problem.

Well it appears the clutch problem has been fixed. As I suspected and others also did it was the internal clutch adjustment.

The first diagnose was a contaminated clutch. I couldn't find info anywhere online where a contaminated clutch would cause a dragging clutch. Just the opposite would happen, a slipping clutch.

On 2nd try the clutch fingers were adjusted. Same issue. Taking out and putting in the clutch/transmission was getting tiresome.

Third try was done without removing the clutch/transmission, but looking at the plates with the shifter removed with a remote camera. The clutch was then adjusted for the correct amount of free play and no drag when the clutch was pushed in.

Drove the car back from the shop today which was a 1/2 hour drive. It worked fine. Previously after driving it for 1/2 hour or less it would start grinding. Also you couldn't get an inch free play.

Thanks for everyone who assisted. I'm thinking that the clutch was on the hairy edge when it was refurbished a few years ago. With some wear, the problem showed up. It was strange that when cold there was no shifting issue, but once warm, I would have a shifting problem. I'm assuming this problem is no more. All is well that ends well. I hope this will help someone else.

I was very happy with the muffler I bought from Waldron for my 32 903.