It seems like I could wire it to work. Both regulators are a three terminal Bat, Gen, Fld, ground on the firewall set screw. Is there any voltage, or amperage reasons to not do that?

1951 model 200 had a Delco style voltage regulator. So. now that I have replaced the generator that had thrown its solder out, I have troubleshot the regulator, and that is what took the generator down. O'Reilly Auto have a generic replacement a BWD #R118 that sells for $60. It looks more like an autolite style. On their website it said that it is for a model 300. Is there any reason that I couldn't adapt it to my car? It is 6V pos/neg ground

Ok I am convinced, rebuild the 6volt it is.
Thanks

It took awhile but I found that the generator is not charging. There is a local shop here in Grass Valley Calif. that say they can rebuild it, or should I farm it out to Packard supplier. I have not gotten a price yet. Maybe this is a good time to think about converting to a 12 volt alternator? There is a new voltage regulator on the firewall. If it was 12 volt neg ground could I install electric ignition? What are the pro, and con of this path?

Just to update, I installed the repo fuel sender from Kanter. Seem to work fine, and is made from stainless steel.

Excuse my ignorance but what is the point to changing the polarity? I had heard years ago that a positive grounded system was more prone to rusting, but have no idea if that is true.

HH56, I have removed and measured the fuel sender. The length of the swing arm from the pivot to the side of the float is 6" in a straight line. If you measure to the curve in the float arm it works out to about 6.5". The drop length of the swing arm is 5.25". My unit seems to have a warped phenolic strip. The wiper is just short of touching, then as it moves it increases pressure until it wants to stick on the back swing. I have opted for the repo unit from Kanter for $94 plus shipping. I really had to think about buying a rebuild from Tucsan Packard as it would have been nice to have one with Packard stamped on the flange but they run $125 plus core charges. My tank has been cleaned and sealed so hopefully no more,rust issues. I will let you know if this fixes the fuel gauge read when it's back in the car.

Thanks for all the great ideas. I'll let you know how it works out in a couple of weeks

I will be taking a shot at a valve adjustment on my 1951 with 288ci engine. I have been pricing tappet wrenches and wonder do I need a complete set or just two wrenches of the right size. What is the tappet adjustment size that I need? Any tricks that I should know about the running hot valve adjustment that isn't in the book?

That has been my experience, but I guess that shocks are no longer hydronic, but gas pressurized. At least the ones that I bought are. They ride just fine.