Hi, thanks for your advice. Yes, I do have the washers that sit on top of the valve spring.

I am going to have the rebuilder check the valve spring tension, and shorten up two valve stems that don't give enough clearance when measuring with the plunger gauge.

I have a few lifters where the spring plunger didn't seat well into the lifter body. Do you know where I can buy a few new or good used lifters and maybe new valve springs?

Canter does not have lifters. I didn't ask Canter about springs.

I will check the retainer to block distance with a caliper. What kind of shim do you use the adjust this distance, and where does the shim install?

Thanks for your help. I am anxious to get the rebuilt engine running so I can continue with the rest of the restoration project.

I am hoping to have the car running by springtime. I have a 47 Hudson super 6 2 door in addition to the 47 Packard Super 8 custom sedan. I will not be able to keep both cars and will need to decide which one to sell.

John Verity, Boise

Thanks for your advice about "leak down" testing. I will try that when the valves and head are back in place.


When I inspected and cleaned the lifters, the spring plunger didn't want to mate up very well with the lifter body. I was concerned about this.

Do you know where I could buy a few new or good used hydraulic lifters? Where can I buy new valve springs should I find some weak ones?

I have checked the cam and ignition timing several times, and will again confirm those settings when I reassemble.

I am getting the valve spring tension checked at the rebuilders now.

Thank again, John Verity

Hi, I need some advice and direction with my 356 hydraulic lifters.

The engine has just been professionally rebuilt. The rebuilder checked the valve stem length with the Packard gauge as recommended in the Packard repair manual. The tightest clearance from stem to gauge was about .040, and the loosest was .070+.

I disassembled the lifters and cleaned them as described in the repair manual. They all seemed to work correctly.

The engine wouldn't start, and in the process of checking all assembly issues I found that the most compression I had was 50 psi, and it went down from there. The repair manual warns about assembling the lifters with oil in them as excess oil in the lifter might keep the valves from seating - hence little or no compression,

When I removed the lifters after discovering low compression, they did have oil in the body. I don't know if I added some oil when I reassembled the lifters, or if they pumped up while cranking. The valve springs, by the way, all look good, but were not load tested.

I tried to get new lifters from Canter, but they don't have any and don't expect any.

I could reassemble the valve system making sure there is no oil in the lifters. I am thinking that I would like to find someone with more experience than I have to check the lifters and the valve springs before I reassemble and hope for enough compression for the engine to start.

I discussed changing to solid lifters with Canter, but understand that I would also need to change cams. It would be best to get the hydraulic lifters working the way they should.

What are your thoughts and advice?

Also,I have a set of +.002 rod bearings and a set of standard knurled skirt pistons I would like to find a new home for.

I am looking for replacement front turn signal lenses also.

Thanks for your help. The owners forum is very helpful.

John Verity, Boise, Idaho

Hi, I am reassembling my rebuilt 356 engine for my 47 super 8 custom club sedan.

My question is what color were the exhaust and intake manifolds originally?

My exhaust manifold looks like it never had paint. The intake is black. Is this correct?

Thanks for your input.

John Verity, Boise, Idaho

Hi, I am looking for a set of standard rod bearings for my 1947 356 straight 8. Kanter Auto Products is filling my piston and ring order, but can't supply standard rod bearings.

Any ideas on where to look would be appreciated.

Thanks, John Verity, Boise, Idaho

Hi, I would be happy to buy the gauge from someone who makes them. How do I contact those people?

Thanks, John Verity

Hi, John Verity here from Boise Idaho. I am rebuilding my 356. If I knew the height of the tappet reserve take-up guage, I could have the engine rebuilder make one.

Do you know the height? Thanks. johnjverity@hotmail.com

Jim L. in Oregon. Thanks for your informative and encouraging reply. Where do you live in Oregon. I am in Boise, Idaho. John V.

Thank you all for your response and comment.

The 356 engine had new standard pistons with knurled skirts installed in over taper bores. #4 cylinder appears to have had a frozen piston forced out. There is no cylinder with more than 40 psi compression!

Bearings look good. Will have the engine evaluated by a good local motor machine shop.

I agree that 100% original is better. The car is very solid and the engineering, design, and robustness of the car is impressive. I am told that only 20 of the super 8 custom club sedans are registered in the USA. The car came from the So. Cal. Desert south of Palm Springs.

John Verity

Hi,I am going to ask a question that I think I know how most of you will answer.

I was fortunate to buy a very straight and solid 47 Super 8 custom Club Sedan #2125-2377.

The engine was very poorly rebuilt, and does not have enough compression to run. I am in the process of pulling the engine out for a re-build. I understand that I could easily get $5000 into a rebuild. By the time I rebuild the engine, re-do the interior, re-chrome grill and bumpers etc, I will have more into the car than I could reasonably sell it for.

Also,should I try to get away with just boring and new pistons and rings, or does it only make sense to bite the bullet hard and do a 100% rebuild while the engine is out?
The brearings, cam etc look good.

I have a 47 Hudson with a 350 Chevy conversion that cost less than the 356 Packard rebuild. The Hudson runs great and is fun to drive.

I understand that a 350 Chevy in a 47 Super 8 club sedan will "spoil" the Packard. What makes sense here?

Also, is Kanter my main source for parts? I need pinion and front trans seals for sure, and a drivers vent window frame.

I would very much appreciate your comments and advice.

Thanks, John Verity, Boise, Idaho